Venice - Day 3

This morning we took a vaporetto directly across the Grand Canal to the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore. Although majestic on the outside as it guards the mouth of the Canal, it was comparatively stark inside. There were works by Tintoretto but it was quite cold. James made a beeline for the candles and once again accepted all my change in exchange for a tea light. It has become a highlight of his European education and we don't mind contributing to the upkeep of these masterpieces.

We took the lift to the top of the bell tower. The view was fantastic - arguably the best for seeing Venice from above. The bells gave us a huge fright when they chimed 10 o'clock right above our heads. Poor James! [Martin - we all got quite a fright!] But he was soon back at his position watching the elevator machinery through the glass walls. View? What view?

Our next stop was the Church of Santa Maria della Salute. It was erected in 1630 to thank the Virgin for ending the plague that had raged through the city. It was spectacularly decorated inside and out. The marble floors were amazing.

Back across the water and to the Basilica San Marco, the 'golden church'. The remains of St Mark were brought here from Egypt in the 11th Century as a direct snub to Rome and St Peter. It is the most breathtaking building - almost completely gold, jewel and mosaic encrusted. I can't do the church justice describing it here. You'll just have to see it for yourself! The floors were almost as impressive as the ceilings. James bumped his head on a marble column, but don't worry, both are fine. He was so tired his head rested on my shoulder and he was audibly snoring and dribbling within seconds - it was so funny!

He stayed that way as we ate our lunch at a tiny, 4 tabled caffe on the Calle dei Fabri just near our hotel. There was no room to move but we managed! Marty and I were in heaven as we ate delectable, olive oil-soaked morsels and drank caffe. We seriously didn't want to leave. It was a real find and we vowed to return!

At about 4pm we hailed a gondola (easiest thing in the world as there are so many of them!) and enjoyed 45 minutes of just cruising around the canals and backwaters of Venice. James was very well behaved and displayed his 'Gondola manners' beautifully. Our gondolier, Alex, pointed out interesting places and Martin went snap-happy! [Martin - We got to see the residence of Marco Polo which was a treat. This is only accessible from the small canal.] The silence was broken by the conversations and salutations of the gondoliers as they ducked under bridges and navigated these beautiful, graceful boats around sharp corners and alongside building and other boats with centimetres to spare. It takes up to 2 years to qualify and one certainly requires the skill. We didn't see any L-platers but they must be out there somewhere!

We had passed a trattoria displaying it's home-made pasta in the window several times and decided on that for dinner. See what I mean about a gastronomic tour! It was very early, 6pm, but the staff were very friendly and made a fuss of James. Marty and I adored the pasta with artichoke sauce and also drank prosecco. James had farfalle (butterfly) pasta with a tomato sauce and Martin and I finished what he didn't! Needless to say, dinner was followed by more gelati. James declared his favourite flavour was the 'Crema del Dogi', a rich vanilla concoction with caramel and chocolate running through it. Ok, it was my favourite too!

Photos are here.