Calleva Atrebatum

A translation of Calleva Atrebautm is "town in the woods of the Atrebates". The Atrebates were an Iron Age tribe who settled near modern day Silchester - just south of Reading. This tribe is of interest to us as it was these people that occupied the site of Windsor some two thousand years ago. At this time the area known as Windsor was part of the Belgae Kingdom of the Atrebates.

Calleva was the administrative centre of Atrebates and was founded only a century before the Romans arrives in AD50. It contained a forum, basilica, shops, taverns, and was the hub of many roads; one leading to London and still called Little London Road today.

We were also interested to visit this ancient town because it has some of the best preserved Roman walls. So this morning we made the short trip of about an hour to explore. It is a large site of about 50 acres which is almost entirely encircled by the walls. The construction is flint with layers of flat stone acting as reinforcement. In front of the walls is a ditch from which earth was excavated to create the ramparts. The walls themselves are dated circa AD200 and, with the original facing stones, would have been at least four metres high.

A trail allows you to circumnavigate the site. A highlight is a Roman amphitheatre. Although there is nothing visible remaining of the town itself. Today it is a few fields although Reading University Archaeological Department have a digging. Apparently at the centre of the town was a forum and basilica. The roads were regular and geometric. It can be possible to see the layout in the growing grass but we couldn't make anything out.

From the car park we picked our way through the mud (James wearing his wellies) and on to the top of the wall. We passed the the North gate at one corner. It has a path some 4 metres wide through the wall. We read that two skulls were found in the defensive ditch at the front. Speculation is that these heads could have been mounted on poles over the gate.

We continued on to the Amphitheatre. Its remarkably preserved and dates pretty much to the Roman invasion of Britain in AD50. It it oval with high, steep, earth banks which could hold between 3,500 and 7,500 spectators depending on whether they were seated or standing. We walked along the top of the banks and imagined the scenes of gladiators and battle.

From there we visited the medieval church of St Mary's. We read that it may be located on the site of a Roman temple. Like the St Mary & St Peter at Wilmington, St Mary's has a timber spire and an ancient yew tree. Inside the church we found a map that depicts the age of its various parts. The walls around one of the windows was 12th century with the rest dating to about the 15th century.

We poked around the head stones and then made our way back through the central field of Calleva back to the car park. By this time we were all feeling a little cold but we're sure to be back. I think the willows and oaks will look stunning against the ancient walls when spring arrives.

Photos are here.