Martin, Merrilyn & James

Friday, March 02, 2007

Venice video

Here is a 10 minute video of our wonderful Venetian long weekend.

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Venice top 5

James' Top 5
1. gelati - anywhere, anytime
2. chasing pigeons in Piazza San Marco
3. the gondola ride
4. cornetti for breakfast. Every day.
4. the bidet in the bathroom

Merrilyn's Top 5
1. shopping - anywhere, anytime
2. vegetarian food - more more!
3. the peace and quiet of Venice
4. Murano glass factory and shops
5. sharing all of this with my boys

Martin's Top 5
1. espresso, macchiato - anywhere, anytime
2. glorious food - arancini, mozzerella and anchovy, biscotti...
3. discovering new Campi (small squares)
4. watching James chase pigeons in Piazza San Marco
5. rose glass in the street lights on the Grand Canal

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Venice - Day 4

Our last day in beautiful Venice (I know I use that word a lot, but it's true!) The breakfast room at our hotel was bordered by a small canal on two sides, so it was exciting to see gondolas glide past as we ate. James was keen to get out and chase pigeons. We made his day by buying a bag of corn for 1 Euro to feed them. He squealed with delight and giggled helplessly, declaring "they peck-ed my fingers!" I was at him with the anti-bacterial wipes straight away!

There was no queue at the Palazzo Ducale, Doges Palace. The rooms here were just incredible, so sumptuous and richly decorated. It was easy to imagine the mighty Doge (Duke) sweeping along the corridors and presiding over the council chamber.This massive room houses the largest oil painting in the world by Tintoretto. Apparently he was so honoured to receive the commission he applied to the council for a reduction in his payment! That's dedication!

From the state apartments we crossed over the covered, two-way Bridge of Sighs on the way to prison. Funny, but one can't help but sigh! It was cold and dank in contrast to the regal splendour of the palace. We didn't stay too long.

We were all glad to get back out into the relative warmth outside. James chased more pigeons (they didn't see him coming) and we took the long way to lunch via the Rialto. But once there we decided to hop a vaporetto and go right around the island, past the port and railway station. It was good to get a different perspective. It took a fair while with many stops but arriving back at San Marco we boarded another boat and went a few stops up to the Accademia district. There was definitely a different vibe going on here - a little relaxed and possibly bohemian. There is a university here and it seemed like the cool place to be. The bridge crossing the Grand Canal is made of iron, in contrast to the more common stone ones. It was originally built by Austrians in 1854 (virtually modern!) but was demolished by Mussolini and rebuilt in it's current state in 1985.

The other side of the canal was San Stefano and it's huge Campo, overlooked by three palaces. Here James made a visit to the famous San Stefano gelateria - the home of true Venetian gelati. He chose strawberry. He is always very generous and offers us a taste. This one we could hardly resist eating it all!

Lunch was back again on the Calle dei Fabri at our 'usual' cafe. We tried different things, including an Italian aperitif, Aperol (bitter orange, gentian, rhubarb and herbs) which I adored! Alcohol content of a mere 11% yikes!

Last task was to pick up our suitcase at the hotel and make our way to Marco Polo Airport for the flight home. James fell asleep within minutes of being on the water bus. I was sad to leave Venice. I felt that once there I didn't want to leave, but the prospect of returning makes me happy.

Venezia, siete sempre nei miei pensieri

Photos here.

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Venice - Day 3

This morning we took a vaporetto directly across the Grand Canal to the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore. Although majestic on the outside as it guards the mouth of the Canal, it was comparatively stark inside. There were works by Tintoretto but it was quite cold. James made a beeline for the candles and once again accepted all my change in exchange for a tea light. It has become a highlight of his European education and we don't mind contributing to the upkeep of these masterpieces.

We took the lift to the top of the bell tower. The view was fantastic - arguably the best for seeing Venice from above. The bells gave us a huge fright when they chimed 10 o'clock right above our heads. Poor James! [Martin - we all got quite a fright!] But he was soon back at his position watching the elevator machinery through the glass walls. View? What view?

Our next stop was the Church of Santa Maria della Salute. It was erected in 1630 to thank the Virgin for ending the plague that had raged through the city. It was spectacularly decorated inside and out. The marble floors were amazing.

Back across the water and to the Basilica San Marco, the 'golden church'. The remains of St Mark were brought here from Egypt in the 11th Century as a direct snub to Rome and St Peter. It is the most breathtaking building - almost completely gold, jewel and mosaic encrusted. I can't do the church justice describing it here. You'll just have to see it for yourself! The floors were almost as impressive as the ceilings. James bumped his head on a marble column, but don't worry, both are fine. He was so tired his head rested on my shoulder and he was audibly snoring and dribbling within seconds - it was so funny!

He stayed that way as we ate our lunch at a tiny, 4 tabled caffe on the Calle dei Fabri just near our hotel. There was no room to move but we managed! Marty and I were in heaven as we ate delectable, olive oil-soaked morsels and drank caffe. We seriously didn't want to leave. It was a real find and we vowed to return!

At about 4pm we hailed a gondola (easiest thing in the world as there are so many of them!) and enjoyed 45 minutes of just cruising around the canals and backwaters of Venice. James was very well behaved and displayed his 'Gondola manners' beautifully. Our gondolier, Alex, pointed out interesting places and Martin went snap-happy! [Martin - We got to see the residence of Marco Polo which was a treat. This is only accessible from the small canal.] The silence was broken by the conversations and salutations of the gondoliers as they ducked under bridges and navigated these beautiful, graceful boats around sharp corners and alongside building and other boats with centimetres to spare. It takes up to 2 years to qualify and one certainly requires the skill. We didn't see any L-platers but they must be out there somewhere!

We had passed a trattoria displaying it's home-made pasta in the window several times and decided on that for dinner. See what I mean about a gastronomic tour! It was very early, 6pm, but the staff were very friendly and made a fuss of James. Marty and I adored the pasta with artichoke sauce and also drank prosecco. James had farfalle (butterfly) pasta with a tomato sauce and Martin and I finished what he didn't! Needless to say, dinner was followed by more gelati. James declared his favourite flavour was the 'Crema del Dogi', a rich vanilla concoction with caramel and chocolate running through it. Ok, it was my favourite too!

Photos are here.

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Venice - Day 2

After breakfast, cornetti and caffe of course, we took a private tour to Murano. We walked down to the Rialto dock where a beautiful, wooden water taxi was waiting to take us away through the canals and out to Murano in record time. Beats the water bus! The fog had lifted from the day before and we had good views as we sped away. Arriving at Murano we visited a glass making factory which we found interesting. The glass master and his apprentices were making goblets and we watched them for a fair while, fascinated by the skill involved in manipulating the molten glass. Afterwards we were taken to the showrooms which were breathtaking. I've never seen so much beautiful (and expensive!) glass and crystal. Rooms crammed with chandeliers and sculpture and glass sets. My birthday present was a truly luminescent blue glass and silver necklace and a set of bracelets. A special reminder. Thanks Marty!

After this we strolled along Murano's own Grand Canal, criss-crossing it's many bridges and looking in nearly every shop window. We came across a fruit and vegetable seller on his boat alongside the promenade. It was a typical Friday morning and the locals were purchasing the produce. It made me hungry! We stood at the bar of a cafe and downed an espresso each and hopped back on a boat.

James coped well with all the walking he'd done so far but by this time was fading fast. We bought arancini rice balls, pizette, anchovies in mozzarella and 'red' orange juice and ate at the table in our suite. He was determined not to have a rest so out we went again and jumped on a vaporetto (water bus) toward Ca'd'Oro district. James fell asleep in my arms. Martin took him from me and went back to the hotel so I could shop unencumbered! I bought some jewelery and a handbag. It was a great feeling to meander along narrow laneways over countless canals and past some of the most exclusive shops I've ever seen in one small area! Three Gucci stores!

Upon returning to the hotel I discovered that James had woken as Martin had tried to put him down to bed and was not to be cajoled into a rest! So we freshened up and ventured out to find some dinner. We were never able to get through Piazza San Marco without James chasing the poor pigeons! He ran around and around and we could only stand and watch with eagle eyes (no pun intended!) as he alternated between roaring at them and calling "come on birdy" with hands outstretched. I hope they had a nice rest when we left!

The sun was setting and we walked along the promenade past the Bridge of Sighs and back around to the now-familiar Rialto. We weren't organised so it was pizza again (no complaints, really!) and another gelati. We were too full and tired to walk anymore so we caught a vaporetto back to San Marco and called it a day. What a day!

[Martin - the vaporetto along the Grand Canal was a spectacular way to see Venice at night. It meanders along the canal stopping outside palaces with the lights from the street restaurants and cafes reflecting off the water. Arriving back at Piazza San Marco we walked under the street lamps shaded with rose venetian glass.]

Photos are here.

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Thursday, March 01, 2007

Venice - Day 1

Well, our passports are getting a good work out this year! James loves looking at the stamps in his, and of course he is always accompanied by Doggy (with his own passport!) on his overseas trips.

We booked a 4 day trip to Venice only a month ago. Martin had previously visited Venice 12 years ago and was just so happy to be back. As he was in Melbourne at the time of our 10th wedding anniversary in January we had decided to celebrate at a later date, and Venice was the first and unanimous choice! It also coincided with my birthday so it was extra special!

We flew out of Heathrow on a morning flight on Thursday 22nd. James remembered Terminal 2 from our trip to Rome with Mum and he told Martin how the last time he was here he had a fruit salad.Which was true and we were so amazed! Maybe he will remember all this!

Our flight was via Milan and we arrived in Venice at 3.30pm, right on time. A short walk from the arrivals hall was the Alilaguna Water Bus service. It was a strange feeling standing on a dock with planes roaring past us on the adjacent runway. It was very foggy so we couldn't see much. The trip into Venice proper took just over and hour, stopping at the island of Murano, famous for it's manufacture of Venetian glass. This was our first glimpse of real life in Venice - no cars! James stood on the seat most of the way.

As we approached the iconic San Marco and Doges Palace James claimed that he would catch a fish in the Canal for our dinner! Yummy! I couldn't believe that I was actually standing here in this Piazza. Our hotel was only 50 steps or so from the square and we found it easily enough. Our room was perfect - so dark and quiet at night it was hard to believe we were in the heart of the city. But, that's Venice! The silence is the most astonishing thing.

After we'd settled we headed straight out to explore. Martin did his 'usual' trick (gets me every time!) of turning a corner and there was the Rialto Bridge all lit up. It was beautiful. We had pizza for dinner followed by the first of many gelati! On the way back to our hotel we bought some biscotti at a store very much like our favourite in Carlton. The selection made buying just a few a difficult task!

Photos are here.

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