Llangollen Canal videos

I've just finished compiling the video of our Llangollen canal boat holiday. It's split into two parts. The first takes you from Chirk Marina to our turnaround point and then back to Grindley Brook staircase lock. The second picks up from the locks and takes you through to Llangollen.

Llangollen Canal - Day 8

Saturday, the last day of our holiday. Yet another glorious Autumn day and we were counting on the fine weather to continue just for another 24 hours! Having packed most of the boat the night before we pulled up pins at 8.45 to reach Chirk Marina just around the corner at 9am. [Martin: the result of more meticulous planning]. The boats need to be returned by then and unpacked by 9.30. I felt this might be the last of the physical work as we ferried crates and bags from Lucy to the car. At last we were set and in the car. Rather than just head for home we decided to see a bit more of this part of Wales and head south for lunch.

Our first stop was Valle Crucis Abbey just out of Llangollen. It was a truly beautiful and incredibly well preserved 13th century ruin in the valley. At this time of year there was hardly anyone else about so we were free to wander the ancient building. James always likes to claim 'his room' and chose a length of protective hessian for a blanket and flat rock for a pillow. Easily entertained! We do tell him about the history of places we visit so he gets an idea of 'the old days.' I overheard him tell Martin all about the Cictercian monks' bookcase - true enough!

A little further up the road and down a steep, narrow, muddy path were the Horseshoe Falls. Thomas Telford constructed this beautiful weir between 1804-1808 as a way of capturing the wild river Dee and taming it to become the Llangollen Canal. 6 million litres of water per day pour down the feeder channel to become the main canal a mile or so downstream.

Still blessed with the weather we headed south-west through a small part of Snowdonia to Lake Vyrnwy. The top of the mountains were rather cool and misty but the autumn foliage just spectacular. Mum took probably nearly a hundred photos (no I am not exaggerating, Mum!) out of the car window until it got too cool to have the window open. Once we came down to the Lake, however, the fog cleared and sun shone and we were amazed at the colourful beauty. Martin and I are glad to have seen Lake Vyrnwy in two seasons. You may recall we visited here in December last year and really enjoyed the food at the Hotel and the magnificent view across the lake to the turreted straining tower. Once again we were lucky enough to secure a prime window seat. Mum and I had classic Welsh tarts (Caerphilly cheese & leek), Martin had a roast and James a panini. As if we weren't full enough we finished off the meal with chocolate puddings and custard. I suspect it was more to do with not wanting to leave than any necessity for more food!

But, the end was nigh and we left this enchanting part of Wales and set the GPS for home. But we just can't seem to drive in a straight line so after passing through Welshpool and over the English-Welsh border we drove through Shrewsbury to Ironbridge, just south of Telford. It is here that the Industrial Revolution is said to have begun with the construction in 1779 of the world's first cast iron bridge over a River Severn gorge. Contrary to popular belief, Thomas Telford had nothing to do with it.

So after a little while there we really did get in the car and set the GPS for home. We had a fabulous time and we're just so glad Mum could be here to share it with us. The bruises may have faded but the memories will live on!

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 7

After the previous days' antics and a noisy night next to the busy A5 we set off at 9.10am. As I said, this part of the canal is beautiful but extremely narrow, one-way for much of it and 2 or 3 passing places marked by two white poles. Mum and I relished the chance to hop off the boat and walk the few miles to Llangollen town, ostensibly to look for oncoming boats. But the view was pretty distracting. I could hear golfers in the valley below calling "Fore!".

[Martin: Actually, offloading our passengers was a necessity. There are two stretches of essentially one-way traffic. The first 300ft and the second 500ft. Sending scouts ahead on the tow path ensures that the way ahead is clear. Or if not, they can negotiate. As it happened, there was not another soul on the canal. Probably a combination of the time and the fact we were towards the end of the season]

We arrived into Llangollen at about 10am and turned Lucy easily in the marina basin. Our aim was to walk down into the town to make the 11am steam train from the station. We needn't have worried, she was there waiting for us and after purchasing tickets, coffee and Thomas Tank Engine souvenirs we boarded.

[Martin: Actually, the steam train ride was the focus of much planning. Before setting out on our adventure I had found a web site that helped plan our itinerary so that we could hit the railway on the Friday morning - in time for a return ride to Carrog. That's why we staged at Sun Trevor the night before.]

Mum had a good chat to the volunteers who work the train and maintain the line. They are an amazing and interesting bunch of men and so pleased to be able to speak of their work and passion on the railway. The railway restoration (www.llangollen-railway.co.uk) was started in 1975 with a mere 60 feet of track. It is a lovely trip alongside the River Dee and into the Berwyn mountains. Today a number of 'steamies' run the 7 and a half miles of restored track westward to Carrog. On special occasions they have Thomas trains running and we could see their rolling stock in the yards at Carrog.

James was having a fantastic time (thoroughly encouraged by his Dad and Ninny!) and was a lucky boy to be in the front rail car with the driver.

[Martin: the train was configured as it would have been originally. The engine was in the middle; between two carriages. The driver sits in the forward facing carriage and has a throttle that is linked by chain to the engine. There is also a hand brake.]

He was taught some railway lessons - 'SW' for sound whistle, the meaning of signals and how to chase pheasants off the line. It was a very important job and we were all very proud of him!

[Martin: The driver had young children about James' age and was happy to have James involved. He taught James about the various signals on the track and was sure to always ask James if the train was clear to continue.]

After a while spent at Carrog station the train was ready to go back to Llangollen. Hmmm...no sight of Mum. She'd done a runner into the village and was heading up the hill to the pub when the guard blew his whistle to summon her! We heard a shriek and she came pounding down the hill at full speed. The crew and I were all in fits of laughter to see her racing towards us! But, she made it and we were soon on our way.

All this excitement made us hungry so back in Llangollen we reluctantly left the train and our new-found railway friends and headed across the river to The Corn Mill (voted Wales' Perfect Pub in May 2006). The 13th Century mill, founded by Cictercian monks from the nearby Valle Crucis Abbey, boasts a still-functioning 20 foot mill wheel. It was a perfect spot for lunch overlooking the river and station. After a leisurely lunch and a a few drinks we walked back uphill to Lucy, filled her with water and headed back down the canal, the way we had come the day before. To our delight we saw a lone heron dive in and grab a poor unsuspecting fish from the clear water. The day ended with the return trip over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (no less impressive!) and moored this time in a gorgeous stretch of canal but right next to a train line which was only slightly less noisy than the A5. No matter - we had had a fun and tiring day. We had placed ourselves close to Chirk Marina for the early drop-off in the morning.

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 6

Six days at sea and still new experiences every day. Today we set out for Trevor which was to be our launching point into Llangollen the following day. A cruisey morning with lunch canal-side wedged between the Chirk Aqueduct and Chirk Tunnel immediately after. The tunnel proved challenging as although only 459 yards long, cold and dark, there was sufficient debris (leaves and sticks) caught in our prop to bring us to a standstill even at full power. Hmmm...what to do. I suggested pulling Lucy out and my suggestion was heartily accepted with he help of two fellow boatmen coming to our rescue. Well, they were waiting to go through and had no choice really!

[Martin: Whilst we traversed the Chrik Tunnel on our first day - this time we were heading upstream. The strength of the current is focused when the canal is flowing in a confined space. We were experienced enough to know that there is a "sweet spot" with the throttle. Adding power beyond this point simply drags more water under the boat, dips the bow down, and actually causes you to go slower. Whilst it is dark in the tunnel, I could monitor our progress by the thin arc of light cast on the brick wall of the tunnel that is thrown from our headlight. As you've read - about three quarters through we started slowing - noticeably! I increased the throttle almost fully but found that we were almost stopped. About 30 seconds of the revving engine bought the people into the tunnel that were waiting for our exit. Merrilyn threw them the bow line and they literally heaved Lucy the remaining way through the tunnel. But the story is not over. I found that there was no power in the engine. I had hoped that as we cleared the tunnel entrance and the canal widened, there would be less current to work against. As it was - were just limping along. I wanted to clear the tunnel sufficiently so we could pull up again the bank to inspect the prop. A clue was the prop wash. It didn't look right - sort of "disorganised" rather than the pronounced turbulence you'd expect. Anyway - we pulled to the bank and Lynne and Merrilyn held Lucy. I turned off the engine, pocketed the keys, lifted the engine hatch and removed the prop inspection panel. All clear. We were to learn that the leaves - now falling - were focused in the tunnels and were dragged into the prop reducing its efficiency. Once realised - I could simply fix the problem by a quick burst of reverse thrust. This counter rotation of the prop cleared the debris. Sorted!]

Anyway, on we went, past the Chirk Marina. James delighted in feeding stale bread to the ducks from the bow. They were pretty canny birds, greeting our boat with their greedy quacks. At this point we did a Canal-kill count : 1 drowning squirrel, 1 rabbit, 1 waterbird with long spindly legs (we think).

At 2.15pm we successfully navigated the Whitehouse tunnel, 191 yards long, and this time Martin first put the boat into reverse thrust, shedding potential debris before we got stuck again. To Mum's and my delight we worked the New Marton locks 1 and 2 with ease. Well, we hadn't done a lock for a whole day and were rather proud of our new-found abilities! At the next Lift bridge Mum got chatting to a newspaper photographer who was on the trail of a body reportedly found in the woods below the Pontcysyllte aqueduct. Eerie 'Midsomer Murders' stuff. Which brings us to a highlight of our trip - The Mighty Aqueduct! All reports of this treacherous crossing were pretty accurate - it was indeed a long way down to the River Dee (Afon Dyfrdwy) 126 feet below.

Keeping James inside, we traversed the 1007 feet with some trepidation but no option! Martin felt the sense of the immense height the most as he stood on the stern a metre or so from the sheer drop. The aqueduct is bordered on one side by a fence and footpath and by nothing at all on the other. Yikes! Nevertheless, he did a sterling job.

[Martin: We creeped along the Aqueduct and almost idle. To my right was the walkway. To my left the cast iron edge of the Aqueduct tub about an inch thick. I had to hang over the left side - with the sheer dop below - to make sure that the boat did not bang against the side. At the end of the day I had very little control. Getting our over the valley the wind picked up. Fortunately it was blowing left to right so we were forced to the side of the walkway. Don't know how I would have felt if it was blowing the other way...]

Just after crossing the Aqueduct there is a sharp left-hand turn under bridge 31. Martin was prepared for this and placed the boat gently against the concrete band and pivoted the stern around before heading under the bridge to begin the journey through the upper part of the Llangollen Canal. As Martin has mentioned previously, this part is very narrow and very shallow so navigating it was no simple task. As we climbed higher into the Welsh hills we were pleased to experience a different landscape, more lush rolling hills and deep valleys than the flat pasture land of the previous days. After about an hour we moored for the night just before Sun Trevor Bridge.

[Martin: I have to admit that I wasn't entirely convinced we could get Lucy up to Llangollen. Along the way we had spoken to others that had difficulty with 50ft boats - and Lucy was almost 70ft. I was concerned about the sharp bends and narrow canal. I had pictured in my mind that the lee side of the bends would be shallow and sandy. As it turned out this was not the case. Anyway - as we moved further upstream the weather started to change and for the first time I was contending with a rather stiff crosswind. This just added another dimension to navigating. To top it off, the canal was definitely getting shallower - in some placed a definite V shape. Keeping in the middle I could see the rising banks either side.]

We thought we had the mechanics of mooring all tied up (ha!), but disaster struck when Martin struck concrete hammering a mooring pin in, and the mallet went sailing through the air and splashed into the canal. Martin and I looked at each other in horror! Mum contemplated for a second then collapsed with shrieks of laughter! Well! What to do?! Poor Martin - it seemed he was the man for the job and duly stripped down and braved the icy canal water to retrieve the offending mallet. He had an audience in a man and his dog who would not take a hint and decided to hang around to see the action! Oh, I can laugh about it now but at the time I wasn't happy! So, after a hot shower and making sure the moorings were absolutely tight we walked uphill to dinner at the Sun Trevor pub, a 14th Century building, reportedly haunted and I believe it! The views across the Dee Valley were gorgeous in the golden evening light. Standing outside waiting for the pub to open we were surprised to see a loco from the Llangollen Railway whiz past on the back of a lorry (truck). We hoped there was a spare loco for our trip the next day!

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 5

New record! 5 layers of clothing! This morning was overcast but still and calm. We puttered along past some funny old craft boats - fashion items for desperate times - and other necessities for one's canal adventures.

Coming down the canal we had passed the beautiful Blake Mere overlooking Georges Wood. The autumn colours of the foliage were glorious and the lake so perfectly still. There were some little jetties sticking out into the clear water and James and Daddy had some fun mucking about on those. Lunch was soup and toasties at a picnic table with the best view in the world!

We took a walk along the canal path strewn with brilliant autumn leaves. James and I couldn't resist kicking and throwing them! It was relaxing spending time walking and being off the boat.

Reluctantly leaving this beautiful spot we cruised on through the Ellesmere tunnel into the canal arm serving Ellesmere village. Whilst Martin waited for the Marina Men to check out our heating glitch, Mum, James and I did a bit of shopping and posted some cards.

[Martin: Having previously swapped out one of the batteries we were sure the problem lay elsewhere. After some high tech diagnosis - basically shorting out the circuit using a spanner - a dud isolating switch was fingered as the culprit. This was bypassed in a jiffy and sure enough the central heating sprang to life!]

Once again we had a tight spot to turn Lucy in and were peeved at being jostled back into our starting position (after much effort) by another boat crowding the turning circle. Grrr again!

[Martin: There's a funny side to this story... somewhere. At end of each of these branch canals there is some kind of turning spot. Basically a bowl shape or similar allowing the boat to turn about. Before leaving our mooring we strategised - really, that's what is was - and reasoned that with our fantastic manoeuvring skills and the judicious use of a push pole we could make the turn in only three moves. The winding hole was basically a triangle. So we aimed for one corner and gently put the bow on the wall. Using slow thrust we levered the back end around until it was parallel to the base of the triangle. For the second move we then carefully reversed to the other corner. Final move - push the bow off with the pole and wait for it to drift around to point towards the exit - apply thrust and we're off. Or that was the plan! As the bow drifted around this other boat appeared down the canal heading straight for us. Without really slowing he began his turn. Of course, there was very little room - we were filling most of the space - so of course he hit us. Not too hard mind - but enough to drive us back and hopelessly out of alignment. So after letting him do his thing we turned our 3-point manoeuvre into a... well mess.]

After some more elbow grease and expert steering from Marty we watered the boat (supervised by Mr James Pittard, Director of All Things Fiddly) and off we went. We moored for the night between Rowson's Bridge and Nicholas #2 Bridge just down from the Montgomery Canal/Frankton Junction. At dusk we walked through fields lazily observed by the cows (their lovely furry ears back lit by the sun) and back to Lucy. Mum continued on and came across a derelict church, built in 1890, but when she commented on it to a local farmer he didn't even know it was there! Gorgeous sunset. I happily admired it from the galley window whilst preparing dinner in the warm!

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 4

A little rain in the early hours of the morning meant a cold and wet Lucy this morning. And a cold and not so enthusiastic Merrilyn. Keen to get under way, we pulled up pins at ten to nine and headed north east for 2 hours to our half-way point of the trip, Thomason's Bridge.

Immediately before the bridge was a winding pool, or turning place. Being 69 feet long, Lucy struggled to turn and it was all hands on deck. The strong current was against us and we were clean out of ideas about how to get around and head back. Going further along the canal to another point wasn't an option. Luckily, Mum had a brainwave and leaped off the front of the boat with a rope to pull the 15 tons around (yikes!) whilst Martin worked the engine, reversing and then going forward inches at a time. It was pretty stressful I can tell you! Finally we got Lucy's nose pointed in the right direction and we applauded Mum for her herculean effort, although we likened her to a Clydesdale horse, minus the hairy ankles!

[Martin: This particular winding pool was relatively small and shallow. Still learning the ropes - so to speak - we tried to turn her around as you would a car. But basically she was about as long as the diameter of the pool. Hence the difficulty. We were to learn later a much manoeuvre that would have been much more effective...]

All that effort made us hungry so we had lunch before tackling the Grindley Locks and Staircase again. Which, I might add, we did all by ourselves with no assistance from the lock keeper (a new one on duty, unaware of our hysterics the previous day). Having ascended the staircase we filled the boat with water (for domestic use, not inadvertently!) and off we went at about 2.30pm.

We were delighted to see kingfishers darting in and out of the reeds by the side of the canal as we passed. Lynne's stats for the day: 3 layers of clothing plus hat for horrible hair. Merrilyn's stats for the day: 4 layers plus cake. Martin: "You girls are such girls".

Under Bridge 41 we were run into by another boat at speed (although we tooted and had right of way) which saw his bow lift off ours and James get knocked off his seat. I was furious and Martin had words but to no avail. Grrr...some people! [Martin: This particular part of the canal was very narrow. And with moored boats along one side it is best to travel slowly. In this particular case we approached a bridge on a bend that put us in the blind. That's why we blasted our horn a few times as warning to approaching boats. I just think in this instance we had a careless driver going too fast. When we saw him approaching I jammed the throttle in full reverse to slow us down. After the collision, I jumped off the boat onto the tow path with a rope and pulled Lucy aside. He hit us again going past - would you believe! To top it off we found, looking back, that he had a clear line of sight to us all along. Oh well - the boats are strong.]

We tied up after Clapping Gate Bridge where the gorgeous sunset and pink clouds sent both family photographers out into the fields in a flurry. Anyway, today's efforts were 7 locks, 5 lift bridge and way too many bottles of wine.

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 3

Right then. Day 3. Awake with the birds, again, but our body clocks tell us it's 7.30am. Time to get out of bed and get dressed as fast as we can and get the kettle on! This morning we cooked a big breakfast and ate it at the picnic table on the bank alongside the boat. Doesn't everything taste better in the outdoors?!

Cast off about 9am, weather was overcast but not overly cold. [Martin: which was probably just as well. Although Lucy had central heating (hydronic) we discovered on our first night that the radiators quickly cooled down as soon as the engine was turned off. The system uses stored heat from the engine and then uses batteries to keep the water hot when the engine is off. We called the Marina in the morning and they reasoned that the battery was not properly charged. Needing a simply swap out we arranged to meet a service chap at midday at the Platt Land bridge. Unfortunately - this wasn't the be the end of the story...]

Cruising along with not too many mishaps we moored at Platt Lane and walked the half-mile to the Waggoner's Inn pub for lunch. We resolved this would be the main meal of the day as the friendly owners plied our outdoor table with food and James had his (almost) favourite food, Yorkshire Pudding! Marty always likes a local ale and I settled for a lager and Mum (the Lush!), enjoyed her gin and tonic in the sunshine. Groaning, we sauntered back the tiny single-lane road to the boat. It was an odd experience to be returning to a boat - rather than a car!

We knew what was ahead of us - the Grindley Locks Staircase. More groaning. Being new at this lock caper we, Mum and I, were somewhat terrified about guiding Lucy through 3 locks descending one after the other but the kindly 'Lockie' had experienced our type before (just how many blondes does it take?) and we smoothly and confidently made it through Phew! This, however, was followed by 3 separate locks immediately downstream so we walked between them, about half a mile in all. Mum is also now a fully-fledged Lift Bridge operator, having lifted and closed all 4 of them today. What a trooper! [Martin: By this time we had worked out how to slow Lucy and manoeuvre her close to the mooring point to offload Merrilyn & Lynne. That way, we could operate the lock or bridge without having to bother actually to tie/un-tie Lucy. The lift bridges are counter-balanced and operate using a sort of hydraulic assisted winch. It's a manual job - with some a little harder going than others. Poor Lynne!]

We truly deserved our dinner at the Willeymoor Lock Pub...WHAT?!Another pub meal after that lunch? Yes, we did! Martin and James went to explore the playground while Mum and I got stuck into the wine whilst admiring the Toby jugs and twee teapots adorning every last inch of space inside. It was lovely in a cosy old traditional sort of way. The waitress called the boys in from the garden when dinner was served. Now that's a first! It was a fine meal and not too far to walk back to Lucy and snuggle down for the night.

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 2

We awoke at sunrise (sounds early - but really it was 7:30am) a little stiff from the narrow beds and glad to find that we hadn't drifted off our mooring pins into the middle of the canal. Lynne spent most of the night dodging bed springs in an attempt to find a comfy spot. She ended up sleeping on the edge of the bed :(

After breakfast and a quick stretch of our legs along the tow path we "de-moored" and headed for our first challenge of the day - the New Marton Locks - about a mile away. Just before the lock we pulled up to refill our water tank. Although 140 gallons it was suggested we top it up daily. Even though we were careful with the showers it still required a fair amount of water. Not to mention some effort to get ourselves sorted to tie the boat up to the bollards. (I think I may have been a bit bossy here...) Fortunately we soon got the hang of mooring Lucy. Merrilyn was at the bow and Lynne at the stern.

Ok - so with water on board we reviewed the basic lock operation.
1. Check that we had right of way.
2. Ensure that the gates are closed.
3. Ensure that the paddles (sluices) are closed.
4. Open paddles to bring lock water level up as needed.
5. When the water level has equalised, open the lock gates to allow Lucy in. If the levels aren't equalised the water pressure will stop the gates from opening. Even the slightest imbalance will keep them closed tight.
6. Drive Lucy into the lock (trying not to hit anything).
7. Close one set of paddles and open the other - lowering/raising the lock water level.
8. Close the paddles.
9. Open the gates and exit...

... Phew! As we waited for our turn (there were a few boats downstream of us) we got chatting to a bloke that was stuck at the lock last night. Apparently one of the gates had jammed requiring an early morning trip out by British Waterways to fix it. Not good. Shortly a boat exited the lock and it was our turn. Merrilyn & Lynne set the lock and I carefully drove Lucy in. Talk about threading a needle. Think of a 69ft boat feeding into a channel with inches either side. And the lock is about 75ft long so we didn't have much room left. In fact, much to the disgust of an onlooker, a came in a little fast a bumped against the front gates rather hard. Oops. I later learnt to use much more reverse thrust so that Lucy came to a halt before the gates! All part of the learning curve.

When it came time to open the gates after lowering the water level we discovered that one jammed before it could be completely opened. To our horror we realised that Lucy was stuck in the lock! There were other fellow travellers that came to offer advice. We tried raising and lowering the water level, opening and closing the paddles/gates. All to no avail. We decided to reset the lock and back Lucy out. Another boat used the lock heading upstream in the opposite direction. Of course, they had no problem. So in we sent again - only to find that the other gate was now stuck. Could you believe it!

This particular lock had a keeper's house that, whilst unattended, did have a few odd tools lying around. One chap grabbed a long handled hoe and scraped around at the base of the gate. Lynne used another to help grapple what seemed to be an enormous object that was propping the gate open. It didn't take Lynne long to organise the troops and we used a rope from Lucy to lasso the object. It turned out to be an enormous log. It seems this was swirling around at the base of the lock in the current jamming first one gate and then the other. With this obstacle removed we found the gates opened without difficulty and we were on our way. Fair to say we were a little frazzled by our first lock experience - taking an hour to traverse.

Fortunately the only other lock - New Marton Lower Lock - only a few hundred yards away - was no such problem. Easy peasy.

We made our way through peaceful fields slowing to negotiate the odd moored boat. Although we did have more excitement in store. As you approach a bridge you can determine the angle of approach based on the orientation of the arch. In one case I came across a bridge almost side on - indicating a sharp right hand bend. I slowed Lucy - although not enough. As I swung her into a tight turn there was a little too much momentum and we started veering towards the bank. Before I could reverse enough I felt Lucy bury herself in the gravel. We were grounded. Not to worry. Simply reverse out I thought. 30 seconds of full reverse and of course we hadn't moved an inch. Although we did start to attract attention from the locals at the adjacent pub and the boathouse opposite. Definitely not good. There was no option. We had to break out the pole, and between the three of us, heave poor Lucy off the bottom. A little chastened we were on our way.

The canal branches first at Lower Frankton and then at Ellsemere. We decided to get some supplies at Ellsemere so moored near Red Bridge. It was an easy stroll down the short canal branch to town. At the end of the branch is a turning point (which we were to have yet another experience with some days later - stay tuned), with a canalside crane once used for loading the boats. James gave us a detailed description of how all the cogs, pins, and ropes worked. So cute!

With supplies on board - including replenished wine! - we continued the afternoon journey past Blake Mere to a gorgeous Cole Mere. We couldn't believe how picturesque this spot was. We moored Lucy under the arching branches of oaks in autumn colour and with a view overlooking the lake. Being about 5pm we quickly locked up and set off on a walk around the lake. Shortly after crossing the canal by bridge we discovered a beautiful thatched cottage. Could this be more perfect. I particularly enjoyed walking through the woods with the leaves falling about us. James and I chatted about adventuring and exploring. About half way around was a marina and, of course, a church that we just had to visit. We met a couple preparing for a harvest celebration that evening at the church.

Circumnavigating the lake we arrived back at Lucy to find that one other boat had moored at our spot. And who could blame them. After another meal and a few good toasts we off to bed wondering what the next day held in store.

Photos are here.

Llangollen Canal - Day 1

We've just returned from a week cruising the Llangollen Canal in North Wales. It was such a wonderful experience - and so relaxing. And it gives you such a different perspective on the countryside.

We thought that it would be best to blog the holiday day by day. That way you can share our learning the ropes - including lock and lifting bridge operation, recovery of the boat after running aground, and the finer skills of manoeuvring our 15 ton boat in the canals...

Our week cruise started at Chirk Marina just inside North Wales. We arrived about 3pm and after checking in were shown to our boat - the Lucy. She's a beauty. At 69ft it is about the longest canal boat afloat but easily accommodated us all configured as three double berths. She also has a well equipped kitchen, a dining area, two toilets, a full sized shower (although hot water is best a night after having run the engines all day), and central heating.

We unloaded all our kit but as we were keen to get underway most of it landed on the nearest bed! Vic, our instructor, ran us through the boat's operation which included the steering, engine control, basic maintenance (such as greasing the prop shaft each night!), and lock operation. We picked his brain for some route options and then, after fitting James out for his life vest, was handed over to another chap who reversed the boat out of the mooring, out into the canal, and then handed over control to me. After making sure I wasn't totally incompetent and didn't ram the boat into the first thing I saw, promptly jumped onto the bank with a wave and we were off!

One focus of the trip was Llangollen which we were told is a very scenic part of the canal - although very shallow and narrow. There is also a steam train that I knew James would love. So rather than follow the pack and head upstream, we had planned to head downstream returning later in the week to tackle Llangollen.

It takes a while to get used to the boat. Its heavy - 15 tones - so you have to be careful of the momentum. But going with the current (which runs about 1 mph) makes life easier.

So it's over to me (Lynne) now to continue with the rest of day 1. With Martin at the tiller and Merrilyn and I thinking we were out for a few days of laid back cruising we came across our first challenge... the Chirk Tunnel. We could just make out the opening at the far end and could see no other boats in the tunnel so turning on our headlight and sounding our horn chugged our way through the 459 yards (goodness knows how long that is in metric) of darkness to emerge at the other end into brilliant daylight and glorious old oaks, ash and birch trees overhanging and reflecting their autumn colours in the canal. An absolute photographer's delight.

Before we knew it we were approaching the next wonder. With nerves of steel (Martin's, not mine), hearts racing and adrenalin flowing we were committed to crossing the fantastic Chirk Aqueduct, which carries the water in a narrow iron trough from England into Wales. Towering above us to our right, the immense arched railway viaduct windowed the brilliant green fields of the Welsh valley and 70 feet below, a jolly long way down, the River Ceirog flowed across a rocky riverbed. We were able to step off the boat (with jelly legs I can tell you) and walk alongside on the tow path as "Lucy" was slowly and carefully steered by our intrepid helmsman who had only been on the job a few hours but handled the cross breeze extremely well. Of course we weren't able to see how impressive we looked as we sailed across the aqueduct that has been serving the communities along these rivers, but the sense of wonder was still there. With cameras clicking and videos running we have recorded our crossing of an engineering marvel opened in 1801 that still continues today to impress.

Today we clocked up around 4.7 miles but as canal boating law states we have to moor before dusk we decided on a peaceful stretch of the canal bordered by hedges on one side and lush green fields on the other on St. Martin's Moor.

Dinner cooked on board our home for the next 7 nights, was followed by close examination of a whole range of bruises, hot showers and an early night. What adventures are in store for us over the next few days. One never can tell!!!

Here is a google map of our route. Photos are here.