Copenhagen Trip

We have just arrived home from a five day holiday in Copenhagen in time Christmas. This was a trip we had long looked forward too. Although we visited Copenhagen last Christmas we had never dreamed of the opportunity to return so soon. The catalyst was visiting with my oldest friend Todd - himself born in Denmark.

We arrived on the afternoon of the 20th after a rather characteristic delay of 2 hours leaving a congested Heathrow. It was dark by the time we landed at 4pm but had no problem grabbing a taxi to our hotel - Marriott - along the Harbour. As soon as we had unpacked we gave Todd and Clare a call - also staying at the same hotel - and we headed out to explore.

Although the temperature was hovering around -1 degree the locals we telling us that it was rather warm for this time of year. Rugged up we walked the 10 minutes journey into the centre of Copenhagen and the Strøget shopping district. This part of Copenhagen characterises Christmas to me. Filled with street vendors, wonderful lights, and crowds of people, it epitomises a Scandinavian Christmas. We found ourselves a funky little street restaurant away from the cold and caught up over a Carlsberg.

Friday morning we caught a taxi to the northern end of Copenhagen to visit the famed Little Mermaid. There were only a few other like minded travellers braving the cold. We made our way to Amalienborg Palace via the Kastellet - original fortifications guarding the harbour entrance - in time to see the changing of the guard. Todd struck up a conversation with a policeman. His Danish is actually quite good!

Not far from the palace is the popular Nyhavn. This canal is fronted by colourful terraced homes and lcaed with restaurants and street vendors. We grabbed a warming glass of Glogg - mulled wine - together with a traditional polser (Danish Hot Dog).

We all spent the evening at Tivoli. What a wonderful place to spend Christmas time. We strolled the stalls and dabbled in Glogg, sweet treats, and perusing Christmas decorations. Of course, no trip to the Tivoli is complete without the rides. James and Merrilyn braved the "big boys" swinging chairs - a favourite of James' at Legoland in Windsor. Todd, Clare, and I went on the rather more adventurous chair ride that capapults you to a great height over the park. I freely admit to vertigo that had me questioning my sanity not long into the ride. But it soon settled and I was left with the screaming cold wind as we were flung through the evening air. After all the fun we found a warm nook in a restaurant to tuck into some more traditional fare - Danish Christmas Pork.

Saturday morning we took a canal tour around Copenhagen. It gave us a different perspective on some familiar landmarks and an opportunity to see sights such as the Opera House at close range. We had not realised the extensive canal network within Copenhagen. There are now many housing developments that take advantage of the water access together with the central location. The afternoon was spent shopping for clothes and Christmas decorations.

Todd and Clare left early Sunday morning to visit family in Odense. We took the opportunity to join a bus tour of North Zeeland to see three magnificent castles: Frederiksborg, Fredensborg, and Kronborg. Frederiksborg is also a National Museum housing many cultural treasures such as paintings, and the constitution. The palace church is used for crowing the monarchy and is adorned with many coats of arms - including Crown Princess Mary and Lord Baden Powell.

Perhaps the most interesting castle was Kronborg. It was constructed in the 1420s along the cost only 4kms from the Swedish mainland. It is also the setting for Shakespeare's Hamlet. Although Hamlet himself is fictional we were told that Shakespeare spent time at the Castle which then inspired his work. Fokelore perhaps - but very interesting. To add to the atmosphere, cauldrons of fire were burning outer walls. And floating on the moat were clumps of candles - placed there by well wishers rather like the prayer candles in a church.

Photos are here.

Copenhagen – Day 4

Our last day in Copenhagen. A beautiful Sunday morning with clear blue skies and the odd patch of warm sun. I wanted to re-visit the gorgeous Royal Copenhagen Christmas store for a few last minute trinkets so I left the boys playing in a square along Stroget. I returned shortly to find James frolicking in steam that was rising from an underground vent. He was dancing around and having a great time and Martin was trying to capture a good shot. The steam got his pants a bit wet but they are fleece-lined (a very good thing!) so he was fine.

We walked the now familiar path along Stroget to the ice rink at the end. I was still undecided whether I’d skate or not but the lively atmosphere and bright sunshine lured me onto the ice. I hadn’t skated since well before James was born so I was pretty anxious. I figured that the Danes were good enough to avoid me should I fall!

I had such fun and only suffered a bruised knee – technically, not a ‘fall!’ As I skated around Martin and James shouted “Hi Mum!” from the side. Then they disappeared and I was later to discover them at a pile of ice just near the skate hire. James was creating a snowman and was most unhappy to be told it was time to leave as the snowman was as yet headless and featureless! Poor snowman! Poor James!

We left Kongens Nytorv and skirted around the square to take a back street route to the Rundetaarn, the Round Tower. This unique building was completed in 1642 and still has a functioning astronomical observatory at the top. Access to the observation deck at the top is via a cobbled spiral ramp, 7 and a half times around and up! At the entrance James was very eager to climb but was soon asking to be carried. No chance! He did very well though. On the way down we detoured into the toilet, set into the wall of the tower. 6 steep steps down and no room to swing a handbag let alone a wriggling toddler!

Oh, and the view from the top was terrific! We could see the bridge to Sweden and all the Palaces and parks we had visited in the last few days.

We had been granted a late check out from the hotel so we made it back with minutes to spare. We took a cab to Copenhagen airport and after check in had some lunch. James was happy to play in the family playground which was a good thing as our flight was delayed and there was very little warning about which gate to go to. But, we were soon in the air again and James was soon snoring again! Poor chop! Again he missed out on a meal and thought that the flight attendant had forgotten him.

Well, there are a few more stamps in the passports! Wonder where our adventures will lead us to next…!

Photos here and video here.

Copenhagen – Day 3

Today after breakfast we decided to split up and get some shopping done then meet up later in the morning. Martin headed off down the Stroget (on a mission!) and James and I took our time getting ready and explored some of the back streets surrounding our hotel. It was nice to just meander along and blend in.

We were to meet Martin at the Botanic Gardens at 11.30. Along the way James and I saw the guards going about some drills. We watched them for about 10 minutes. Along came Dad and we strolled through the gardens toward a playground for lunch. We passed the huge Palm House and a lake full of ducks. We were amused to see the sign to keep of the lawn (Mum!) which James promptly tried to remove from the ground.

After lunch we walked a short distance to the lovely Rosenborg Slot. This Dutch-Renaissance palace is now a museum and houses Denmark’s riches including the incredible crown jewels. They were so beautiful! Only 3 rooms were open due to renovation but it was enough of a glimpse of their rich history. By this time James was fairly grouchy. I whisked him off to the (relatively nice) loo and missed the changing of the guard in the process! Oh well!

On the way back to the hotel it was my turn to shop, so Martin strolled the exhausted James back along Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard and I set off (with a spring in my step!) It was lovely looking in all the shop windows, even the ones selling seafood and pastries and things that ordinary Danes come to buy on a Saturday afternoon. I bought two rings which I love and will always remind of our time in Denmark.

I arrived back to the room at nearly 4pm to find the lights off and drapes drawn. James slept for 2 hours and Martin listened to his i-pod. I had a looooong bath as there was no room in the bed! We eventually woke James and the weather was dry so we rugged up and set off for Tivoli over the road again! James and Martin went on a car ride and the boats again. I took him on a ride through a Hans Christian Andersen fantasy-land. Our carriage was an opened treasure chest and it weaved its way gently up and down past all the fairytales. It was a little surreal but totally magical with tinkly music. James was enthralled but I think it didn’t go fast enough for him!

On the way back through Radhauspladsen I went into 7 Eleven and bought 2 beers – Tuborg. The Danish breweries brew special beer for Christmas. Or it could be the same old beer with a festive label to suck us in! Either way, we sat up in bed and drank them. Unfortunately not enough to drown out the clock bells but great all the same! Ahhhh…!

Photos are here. Video clip here.

Copenhagen - Day 2

Today was our first full day in the city. We’d had a restless night partly thanks to the clock tower situated at the front of our hotel. It chimed every 15 minutes until midnight! It was still dark when we awoke but we enjoyed our breakfast downstairs in the “Brasserie on the Square”. The restaurant windows ran along the front of the square and we could see that although overcast there was no rain. Instead of the usual croissant, I convinced James to try a Danish pastry (when in Denmark..!). He picked off and ate all the icing, then the custard and finally the pastry. He was well pleased with a bowl of fruit salad and yoghurt also.

We sent some time in the square at the front of the hotel, Radhuspadsen. James was excited to see the huge Christmas tree which the previous night had been blowing about rather dangerously! However, all the decorations were still intact and he ran round and round.

The beauty of this location is that Copenhagen’s main pedestrianised shopping street, Stroget, begins here. We were captivated by the amount of shops and fabulous decorations hanging overhead and in every window lining the street. We soon came across Georg Jensen and Royal Copenhagen stores, each with a dedicated Christmas store! I was so excited! The window displays alone were just amazing to look at. James stood still for a good 5 minutes in front of Santa making last minute presents for good boys and girls!

We happily shopped and had great difficulty choosing just a few things to bring home. Georg Jensen and the department store Illums, in particular, were almost like art galleries, filled with amazing designs and works of art. Not the ideal place for an active 3 year old!

At the end of Stroget is Kongens Nytorv, King’s New Square. I was really thrilled to see a circular ice-rink in the middle! I couldn’t believe how good some of the little Danish children were on the ice! Was I going to be shown up by midgets..?! James thought some of them falling over was really funny! I was scared.

We walked around the rink to the other side of the square to Nyhavn. This is the picture postcard image you see of Copenhagen. Lovely, bright coloured buildings front onto a canal that was once full of incoming boats and sailors. The fishing boats are still there and in use but the sailors and their dubious habits have gone. There was a Christmas market along one side of the canal.

We ate lunch in a small park with a playground just beyond Nyhavn. Funny how your priorities change when you have children! A statue of Hans Christian Andersen stood at one end. James had a good run around and we took the opportunity to take a toilet stop at a rather nice hotel opposite. He howled the place down when he cracked his head on the toilet bowl. Don’t ask!

A little further on was Amalienborg Palace, home to the Danish Royal Family since 1794. It was here that we got our first view of the Danish guards. I explained to James that they were guarding the Queen of Denmark, just as our guards in Windsor guard the Queen of England! We also figured that they are allowed to stand with their arms crossed as it’s really, really cold!

We came across Marmorkirken, the marble church just up from Amalienborg. I’ve since read that its dome is one of the largest in Europe, but the circular building itself is actually not so big. Inside was ornately decorated with beautiful Danish sculpture and paintings. There was an atmosphere of sanctuary, peace and calm in there (James was outside with Martin!)

Further still (well we did expect to do a fair bit of walking!) we crossed through Kastellet (barracks), past a really gorgeous windmill, and followed the signs to The Little Mermaid. She is just lovely and although sitting on a rock on the side of the port of Copenhagen she is not lonely and isolated like I imagined she’d be. I loved that even with busloads of tourists clambering out to her rock to get the ‘best’ photo, her wistful gaze never wavered from searching the sea beyond for her lost Prince. Such a sad little story. I was sad to leave her.

Heading back into the city centre it was now dusk. We didn’t mind as that meant more glittering photo opportunities!

Although it was now raining a bit we really wanted to go to the Tivoli. First stop was a mulled wine stall and oh, it was fantastic! Really, really good. Poor James couldn’t have any to warm him up but we did give him the fat raisins from the bottom of our cups! His reaction? “Mmmmm!!!!”

The crowds were huge and navigating the stroller through them was difficult, but there were so many families we just had to take our time and go with the flow. There was so much to look at that walking so slowly was a blessing! It was truly magical and European and sooo Christmassy! We could smell roasting nuts and hot dogs (Denmark’s national fast-food!) and wine and waffles. We soon got hungry so stopped for a bite. James and Martin had hot dogs and that kept them quiet for a bit!

James was desperate to go on rides, having caught the bug at the fireworks in Windsor back in October. We let him ride on a white horse on the carousel and he was overjoyed! We all went on the famous Ferris wheel and the view from the top was breathtaking. Then James was still asking nicely so he and I went on the boats on the lake. He thought it great fun to hit the icebergs and other boats.

We had a great time but were very tired and reluctantly left Tivoli at about 9pm.

Photos are here. There is a video of our day here and of Tivoli at night here.

Copenhagen - Day 1

We have all been looking forward to our Christmas trip to Denmark. This Thursday we left Heathrow bound for Copenhagen. Our flight was due to depart 11:55am so we caught our taxi about 9:30am to give us plenty of time to sort ourselves out.

After checking in we made our way through passport control. James is getting quite used to the rigmarole and seems to take it in his stride. He's got a bit of a head cold so we gave him a little cough medication to help ease the flight.

It turned out that the flight was delayed about 2 hours due to weather. During the morning SW England experienced about 70 knot winds that caused havoc at Heathrow delaying many flights. We finally boarded at about 14:00. James gad the window seat and promptly insisted that the window blind be closed!!

Taking off we seemed to get caught in gusty cross wind as the aircraft jumped from side to side on the runway. A few wobbles later and we were off. James - well he was asleep within minutes. Bless (another UK term!)

Copenhagen is about two hour’s flight (and an hour ahead) so we arrived in darkness. First impression of the airport is to reinforce the notion of Danish design. It’s a wonderfully modern airport with lots of subdued lighting and timber.

From the airport we caught our taxi to the Le Meridien Palace Hotel right in the heart of Copenhagen. Being in Europe the driver sits on the left. James couldn’t see anyone in the usual driver’s seat and thought the car was driving itself!

The hotel is undergoing renovation at the moment. Although this is in wings so we weren’t inconvenienced. Our room was brand new and had a lovely big bed and a bathroom that was very well designed (at least I thought so). James was on a folding bed which did take up a little room when down.

We rugged up in our big coats, scarves, and gloves and headed straight outside to explore. It was drizzling and about 5 degrees. I think with the wind chill it was about 0. Immediately outside is the main square – Raadhuspladsen. In its center was a large fir Christmas tree with lots of lights. Around the square the buildings are lit with bright neon. And in the backdrop is Tivoli (more on that in a later post). Instead we set off to wander down the main shopping street - Strøget. And it doesn’t disappoint. Strung across the street are lights – in this case with illuminated hearts. As we approached some of the high end shops (such as Illum, Royal Copenhagen, and George Jenson) we saw more dazzling lights and illuminated facades. Just magical to watch.

At the end of the walk we came to another main square. This one had an ice rink that encircled it. Merrilyn’s eyes lit up. We were all a little cold by this stage so made our way back towards the hotel. We picked up a bite to eat and then back for a nice hot bath in that bathroom.

See our first set of photos here.