We knew we had passed through some spectacular scenery last night (just couldn't see it!) so this morning we drove inland again. Initially the landscape was farmland and we had to take care with oncoming agricultural machinery on the road. The roads then became single tracks and mountainous as we crept across the country in fog then cloud. A highlight and place to stop and admire the view was the Llyn Brianne reservoir, a new hydro-electric facility. The water was coming over the spillway in massive sheets and to my relief and Martin's disappointment the road crossing it was closed to unauthorized vehicles. We had a late lunch at 2pm by the fire at the Talbot Arms in Tregaron. A little local girl of about six sang Christmas songs and wished us a Happy New Year in Welsh, and James met a dog names Benji. He kept calling it Bungee!
Drove north cross-country (thanks to GPS!) to Aberaeron. This is my favourite Welsh town as it cosily hugged the yacht-filled harbour and most houses were painted in pretty colours, a nice change from the drab grey elsewhere. We ate at the brilliant Harbourmaster Hotel on the foreshore. It was stylish and modern and the food delicious. Incidentally it features in our 2008 Pub Guide. After lunch we strolled along the harbour and into the town but not much was happening on a Sunday. It was too early to head back so we continued on through a lovely part of Wales, following a scenic railway line into the lower part of Snowdonia. The afternoon sun was setting as we crossed the River Dovey at Machynlleth and we meandered alongside the plains until we came to the town of Aberdovey and the sea. Whilst I scouted the town for coffee (4pm on a Sunday - are you kidding?) Martin and James explored on the best beach we have come across in Britain. It was wide and sandy and the faces of the buildings were bathed in glowing light as the red ball of sun dropped beyond the horizon . The lights of the town came on and we found a pub where we had our coffee. It was now dark but, not wanting to retrace our steps we did a big loop through the forests and mountains of the Dovey Valley. Avoiding Aberystwyth we drove inland and came south by winding roads and finally back to the cottage in complete darkness.
It was a beautiful morning, actually sunny and clear with blue skies overhead. We got out and joined a walking path that ran along the hill behind the cottage towards the sea. [Martin: Actually it forms the edge of a National Park]. We were met at the second gate by two brown ponies who were too shy to hang around for a pat and a chat. The path was narrow, slippery in some places and rocky in others. It wound along the side of the hill, high enough to make the cottage look like a doll's house way below. At the summit we stood on top of the rocks and looked down into Cwmtydu where everything was in miniature, even Postman Pat going about his business in his red van. We had a good grip on James as the wild wind nearly knocked us off our feet.
Leisurely morning at the cottage then drove north to New Quay to find a pub for lunch. Yummy ciabatta rolls, and ale for Martin, at a table overlooking the wet foreshore and turbulent grey sea beyond. The rain rolled in and brushed the windows then retreated back over the headland. On the way back we parked the car at our local beach at Cwmtydu. In season, seals come here to give birth to their pups. It was a pretty, stony beach with the river from the valley spilling across the shore and into the sea at the far end. I liked the noise the clattering stones made as they clashed with the waves. James and Martin had fun throwing stones into the water. Spent the afternoon at the cottage before heading out to dinner at a pub in Nevern. Along the way I was excited to see our first hedgehog scurry off the road into the brambly hedge. The pub looked inviting enough from the outside but unfortunately the restaurant lacked the local atmosphere of the bar. We were still full from lunch and the dinner served was enough to feed an army.
Martin and James did a supermarket run into Cardigan then after lunch we drove a few winding miles south to Llangronog. After exploring the huge dark caves and stony beach we walked up steep steps then along the coastal path to an outcrop or small peninsula called Yms-Lochtyn. It was a long steep walk down the cliff out onto a grassy plateau surrounded by the crashing sea. We knew it was going to be hard work to get back up! Sure enough it was challenging with a howling head wind but James did remarkably well with his little legs. Although planning a more relaxed pace for the break it was refreshing to walk these spectacular cliff tops.
Although only a few days from arriving back from Copenhagen we wanted to pack as much holiday into the Christmas break. So on Boxing Day off we went to our cottage in South Wales - Cwmtydu to be exact. We arrived at our cottage, Pen y Parc, late in the afternoon just as darkness was falling over the valley. A 17th century building, we had to take care not to hit our heads on the low beams inside but it only took me 5 minutes to do so! I blame fatigue. We would have a few knocks over the coming days. After choosing bedrooms upstairs (a bunk for James and Doggy) we lit the fire and had dinner. We enjoyed our wine by candlelight and were in bed reasonably early.
We have just arrived home from a five day holiday in Copenhagen in time Christmas. This was a trip we had long looked forward too. Although we visited Copenhagen last Christmas we had never dreamed of the opportunity to return so soon. The catalyst was visiting with my oldest friend Todd - himself born in Denmark.
We arrived on the afternoon of the 20th after a rather characteristic delay of 2 hours leaving a congested Heathrow. It was dark by the time we landed at 4pm but had no problem grabbing a taxi to our hotel - Marriott - along the Harbour. As soon as we had unpacked we gave Todd and Clare a call - also staying at the same hotel - and we headed out to explore.
Although the temperature was hovering around -1 degree the locals we telling us that it was rather warm for this time of year. Rugged up we walked the 10 minutes journey into the centre of Copenhagen and the Strøget shopping district. This part of Copenhagen characterises Christmas to me. Filled with street vendors, wonderful lights, and crowds of people, it epitomises a Scandinavian Christmas. We found ourselves a funky little street restaurant away from the cold and caught up over a Carlsberg.
Friday morning we caught a taxi to the northern end of Copenhagen to visit the famed Little Mermaid. There were only a few other like minded travellers braving the cold. We made our way to Amalienborg Palace via the Kastellet - original fortifications guarding the harbour entrance - in time to see the changing of the guard. Todd struck up a conversation with a policeman. His Danish is actually quite good!
Not far from the palace is the popular Nyhavn. This canal is fronted by colourful terraced homes and lcaed with restaurants and street vendors. We grabbed a warming glass of Glogg - mulled wine - together with a traditional polser (Danish Hot Dog).
We all spent the evening at Tivoli. What a wonderful place to spend Christmas time. We strolled the stalls and dabbled in Glogg, sweet treats, and perusing Christmas decorations. Of course, no trip to the Tivoli is complete without the rides. James and Merrilyn braved the "big boys" swinging chairs - a favourite of James' at Legoland in Windsor. Todd, Clare, and I went on the rather more adventurous chair ride that capapults you to a great height over the park. I freely admit to vertigo that had me questioning my sanity not long into the ride. But it soon settled and I was left with the screaming cold wind as we were flung through the evening air. After all the fun we found a warm nook in a restaurant to tuck into some more traditional fare - Danish Christmas Pork.
Saturday morning we took a canal tour around Copenhagen. It gave us a different perspective on some familiar landmarks and an opportunity to see sights such as the Opera House at close range. We had not realised the extensive canal network within Copenhagen. There are now many housing developments that take advantage of the water access together with the central location. The afternoon was spent shopping for clothes and Christmas decorations.
Todd and Clare left early Sunday morning to visit family in Odense. We took the opportunity to join a bus tour of North Zeeland to see three magnificent castles: Frederiksborg, Fredensborg, and Kronborg. Frederiksborg is also a National Museum housing many cultural treasures such as paintings, and the constitution. The palace church is used for crowing the monarchy and is adorned with many coats of arms - including Crown Princess Mary and Lord Baden Powell.
Perhaps the most interesting castle was Kronborg. It was constructed in the 1420s along the cost only 4kms from the Swedish mainland. It is also the setting for Shakespeare's Hamlet. Although Hamlet himself is fictional we were told that Shakespeare spent time at the Castle which then inspired his work. Fokelore perhaps - but very interesting. To add to the atmosphere, cauldrons of fire were burning outer walls. And floating on the moat were clumps of candles - placed there by well wishers rather like the prayer candles in a church.
Today we had an extra treat in store. In addition to sampling yet another English Pub we celebrated a somewhat early Christmas lunch with the Bennetts; Merrilyn's family in Fleet. They had recommended the 15th Century Chequers Inn at Well, near Odiham in Hampshire.
We had all agreed to meet at 12pm, and we were well on the way to making it in good time, until fate intervened with a failure of the front passenger tyre. Just after we approached Crondall we heard the unusual tyre noise and pulled over to investigate. Sure enough the tyre was completely flat and sitting on the rim. It was cold - only a few degrees - but there was nothing that could be done other than get on with the job. Merrilyn gave Peter a call who fortunately was almost at the pub. Dropping his family off he doubled back the last few miles and came to our rescue. By this time I had only just managed to drop the spare from its cage under the floor pan. Not an easy job! We agreed to leave the tyre until after dinner so there we left the poor Zafira.
Well is a small village of only a few homes. It was a crystal clear day but being so cold overnight (Peter informed us it was -6.5 degrees in Fleet) there were many pockets of frosted grass and some patches of ice on the road. The pub itself if cosy with the entrance to the main bar part of the original building. Beyond the bar is the dining room which is located in a more recent addition. Very spacious and decked out with Christmas bonbon. Of course we all enjoyed roast and Yorkshire puddings. James (our little one) was true to form and polished his off in a jiffy.
Over lunch we caught up with the family news. We were all thrilled to hear that Richard has been accepted to Bath University - his first choice - to study mathematics. James is studying hard in preparation for his exams next year. But I think with Richard moving to Bath next year it will be an exciting time for the family.
With lunch completed we set off on a short walk past some of the beautiful properties in Well. We stopped at a converted barn to admire the frozen pond sitting under an oak by the road. Peter tossed a rock that bounced across the surface making a strange reverberation. Yes - it was frozen.
Peter dropped James, Merrilyn, and I back to our car and gave me a hand changing out the tyre - Thanks Peter!! However those clever engineering folk at Vauxhaul had one last trick in store. Neither of us could reassemble the type cage under the floor pan without fear of threading the bolt that attaches it to the car. In the end we used some wire to "bodge" it. Examining the failed tyre I could not find a puncture. The sidewall is destoryed so my only conclusion is that we must have had a blowout - possibly on the M3.
Quite an adventurous day. And to think we were hoping just for a quiet ale and a nice chat!
Last Thursday the children of Little Rainbows performed their nativity play "The Sleepy Shepherd". It was standing room only at the back of the hall as parents and grandparents braved the rain and cold and arrived at 11.30am. James was a sheep and had to skip about then fall sleep on demand. It was a great success and the children had been practising their lines and songs for weeks. He was a little uncomfortable wearing his sheep head and couldn't wait to take it off at then end! You'll see in the video little Flora who has broken her leg (at Bachelor's Acre!). I think the teachers did a lovely job of including her by decorating her wheelchair with tinsel! It was also a terrific fundraising event with Tombola and refreshments and we raised a lot of money for the school.
James is the 3rd sheep to appear in the play at about 50 seconds into the video...
After a drizzly start to the morning the sun broke through the clouds as we turned off the main road in Elstead, Surrey. The skies cleared as we drove slowly across the stone bridge down the cobbled drive towards The Mill. This 4 storey, 18th century, converted watermill with the river running right underneath is set in large grounds with tall trees and a picturesque meadow. It would be heaven in summer with many picnic tables set around for eating al fresco next to the river. Today it was running fast with the amount of rain we've had in the last couple of days and the ducks on the millpond had their work cut out! Inside the main door was the waterwheel - James is always fascinated - but this one wasn't going. The pub has a great atmosphere and is quite a rabbit-warren but we finally settled on a conner table in a room with an open fire. Lunch was fine but not exceptional which is a pity in this amazing setting.
Afterwards we wandered east through Thursley, Witley, Cranleigh and Forest Green then turned west and headed into the sunset. It was a fine afternoon and such a lovely part of England here in Surrey.
[Martin: Although Merrilyn and James fell asleep on the journey home we did meander around some lovely small villages and surrounding woods. Most leaves have fallen now making the fields dotted with spindly oaks and the narrow roads lined with naked hedges.]
This afternoon we joined our community to welcome Santa to Windsor. We met Santa as he appeared through the gates of the Castle led by the Rotary Band and with elves on hand. The children all rushed forward to see Santa. James shouted "hello Santa" and was rewarded with a save and smile. We followed Santa down St Alban's Street as oar as the parish church. We then ducked through to the Guildhall and watched as Santa looped past on High Street.
Traditionally Santa's sleigh is pulled by Reindeer from Scotland. This year - because of the foot & mouth disease, he was pulled by a team of huskies.
This blog allows us to share in our UK assignment with all our family and friends. We intend to keep it updated will all our experiences (including photos) as we start our new life in London.
We knew we had passed through some spectacular scenery last night (just couldn't see it!) so this morning we drove inland again. Initially the landscape was farmland and we had to take care with oncoming agricultural machinery on the road. The roads then became single tracks and mountainous as we crept across the country in fog then cloud. A highlight and place to stop and admire the view was the Llyn Brianne reservoir, a new hydro-electric facility. The water was coming over the spillway in massive sheets and to my relief and Martin's disappointment the road crossing it was closed to unauthorized vehicles. We had a late lunch at 2pm by the fire at the Talbot Arms in Tregaron. A little local girl of about six sang Christmas songs and wished us a Happy New Year in Welsh, and James met a dog names Benji. He kept calling it Bungee!
