Romans, Normans, Tudors; Caesar, King, and Queen

Conquest. It's the theme of my most extraordinary day. And testament to the richness of British history. In one day I was able to visit three sites that are no less than historic cornerstones.

I started the day at Richborough Fort located near Sandwich in Kent. This site marks the first, unsuccessful, Roman invasion of Britain by Julius Caesar in 49BC. The Romans returned in AD43 to successfully conquer the British (at that time a warring set of kingdoms). The bridgehead allowed a rapid build up of troops. The site originally consisted of two large ditches encircling an earthen revetment. Parts of the ditches are still visible today. Later, external walls were built around a core of flint and mortar. These walls are largely still intact.

To me, there were two fascinating artefacts. The first was the foundations of the monumental arch. This was built to celebrate the conquest and straddled Watling Street - the main route from Richborough to London. It marked the entrance to Britannia. It is believed to have been about 25 metres high and made from Italian marble. I could imagine arriving at the site and passing though the arch on to way to London. Rather like the Arch of Constantine in Rome or the Arch de Triomphe in Paris. The second was an ancient Christian baptismal font. This is dated about the 4th century - the end of the Roman period in Britain and after the Roman conversion to Christianity. It would be one of the oldest Christian artefacts in the country.

The second site (in chronological rather than visited order) was Battle. The site of the Battle of Hastings between the English King Harold and the invading Duke William of Normandy in October 1066. This battle arguable changed the face of Britain's culture, architecture, and governance. I arrived at the site though the Abbey gatehouse and walked out to the grassy fields now covered in spring flowers. Although it was a glorious sunny day I tried to imagine the scene of thousands of Anglo-Saxons squaring off against the Normans. The English had the high ground. The Normans had tactics and were well armed. Although the site now has an Abbey (more later) and has been farmed in the intervening years, you can still appreciate the slope up which William and his men had to attack. And this would have been in the midst of a hail of arrows, axes, and rocks. Many thousands lost their lives on this field with William gaining the ascendancy only after almost a full day of fighting.

Harold was killed in battle. Although there is some debate about whether he was felled by an arrow through the eye or by an axe wielded by William's Knights sent through the fray to assassinate the English King. Following defeat on October 14 William proceeded to conquer the Saxon resistance and was crowned King on 25 December 1066 in Westminster.

William had such respect for Harold that he declared that an Abbey be established on the high ground from which the English defended. The Benedictine Monks required all their building expertise due to the steep slopes of the site. William himself returned to identify the site where Harold was felled. This site became the location of the Church High Alter. The church itself was consecrated in February 1094. Today a plaque commemorates the site. I enjoyed walking the grounds and admiring the Gothic architecture.

The final site I visited was Walmer Castle. Built by Henry VIII in 1539 it was an artillery fortress to protect again invasion from France and Spain. In 1708 Walmer Castle became the residence of the Lard Warden of the Cinque Ports. Resident Wardens have included the Duke of Wellington, Winston Churchill (who refused to live at the Castle - as was customary - because it was within range of the German artillery located on the French coast), and Queen Elizabeth.

I was fascinated by the Wellington room that housed an actual coat, hat, and leather boots worn by the Duke. It was a little funny to be looking at his "wellies". The castle gardens are well worth a visit. There are formal kitchen gardens, and a glorious avenue that was planted with flowers boarded by a manicured hedge. Of interest was also the "Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother's Garden". Queen Victoria and Albert have also stayed at the castle.

Not a bad day. Photos are here.