Merrilyn & James home from Australia

A short post to let our family and friends know that Merrilyn & James arrived home safely this morning. It was an early arrival - about 5:45am - but James had slept about 8 hours on the plane so he's full of energy.

It's good to have them home. It's a wet day here in Windsor but it won't stop us walking to Carluccios for some tasty lunch.

Merrilyn was glad to see home. Particularly the kitchen - she's missed cooking. So I plan to give her lots of opportunities to spoil us!

James was happy to see me. He told me all about the swimming pool and hotel in Singapore. I'm sure I'll hear more about Australia today. Getting home he dove straight for his toys and asked that I help him make a Lego rocket with him.

[Update: James hasn't stopped talking for the last six hours. He's even stopping people in the street to tell them that he has a stuffed dog and that he loves him Mummy & Daddy more than strawberries!]

An afternoon at the British Museum

With Merrilyn & James returning home tomorrow, and faced with a rather gray dull kind of day, I can think of nothing better than visiting the British Museum in London. I'm sure Merrilyn would be interested but know that a visit would probably be limited by James attention span!

It's easy to get to - just a short walk from Tottenham Court Road tube station. Being in West End the walk to the Museum takes you past theatres such as the Dominion - currently playing Ben Elton's "We will rock you".

Visiting the British Museum is definitely an experience. The architecture of the building and rooms are as much as part of the exhibition as the antiquities themselves. For example, the Parthenon Room in which you can admire Greek sculptures.

I think for me the most impressive piece was the Rosetta Stone. Containing a message repeated in three languages (and crucially hieroglyphic and Greek) it provided the key to deciphering the Egyptian hieroglyphs. A remarkable piece of history.

I also enjoyed the huge Egyptian statues - particularly of Ramesses II from Thebes.

But I was also impressed with the sculptures from the Parthenon depicting battles between a human Lapith and a Centaur. These had such drama and vigour. And I couldn't help but think of Narelle when admiring the muscular torsos and composition. To finish off my tour I visited the Etruscan gallery where you can see the influence of Greece in both the pottery and in war fighting helmets.

I left my camera at home so no photos to share. Sorry.

Walking at dusk

The past few weeks I've taken the opportunity to take evening walks along the Long Walk. It' all part of my attempt to raise my fitness and enjoy the Spring evenings. I intend to keep it up after Merrilyn and James return.

This past week has seen me spending late nights supporting our client with some challenges. And tonight I got a call that we are once again up for a late night meeting. I guess it's a mixed blessing. On the one hand I hope to have it all squared away when the family arrives on the weekend but on the other it's definitely impacting my precious solitude time. So tonight I stole a 45 minute walk that I really enjoyed and wanted to share.

Heading off about 8:15pm the sun was low. Not many people were out so I could enjoy the peace & quiet. As I passed through the Deep Park gate the sun had settled on the horizon bruising the sky with deep purple and orange. But most amazing was the mass of deer - probably well over a hundred - that were grazing on the grass. They were close. Only a few metres away and didn't seemed bothered by my walking. I could hear the sound of tearing grass as they munched away. Their coats were mottled as the winter fur was shed. And in the background was the sound of the birds as they settled into the Chestnuts that line the Walk. I turned back towards the castle about 8:45pm. As dusk set in there were a few lights on the castle that blinked in the distance.

Now - on to work...

Romans, Normans, Tudors; Caesar, King, and Queen

Conquest. It's the theme of my most extraordinary day. And testament to the richness of British history. In one day I was able to visit three sites that are no less than historic cornerstones.

I started the day at Richborough Fort located near Sandwich in Kent. This site marks the first, unsuccessful, Roman invasion of Britain by Julius Caesar in 49BC. The Romans returned in AD43 to successfully conquer the British (at that time a warring set of kingdoms). The bridgehead allowed a rapid build up of troops. The site originally consisted of two large ditches encircling an earthen revetment. Parts of the ditches are still visible today. Later, external walls were built around a core of flint and mortar. These walls are largely still intact.

To me, there were two fascinating artefacts. The first was the foundations of the monumental arch. This was built to celebrate the conquest and straddled Watling Street - the main route from Richborough to London. It marked the entrance to Britannia. It is believed to have been about 25 metres high and made from Italian marble. I could imagine arriving at the site and passing though the arch on to way to London. Rather like the Arch of Constantine in Rome or the Arch de Triomphe in Paris. The second was an ancient Christian baptismal font. This is dated about the 4th century - the end of the Roman period in Britain and after the Roman conversion to Christianity. It would be one of the oldest Christian artefacts in the country.

The second site (in chronological rather than visited order) was Battle. The site of the Battle of Hastings between the English King Harold and the invading Duke William of Normandy in October 1066. This battle arguable changed the face of Britain's culture, architecture, and governance. I arrived at the site though the Abbey gatehouse and walked out to the grassy fields now covered in spring flowers. Although it was a glorious sunny day I tried to imagine the scene of thousands of Anglo-Saxons squaring off against the Normans. The English had the high ground. The Normans had tactics and were well armed. Although the site now has an Abbey (more later) and has been farmed in the intervening years, you can still appreciate the slope up which William and his men had to attack. And this would have been in the midst of a hail of arrows, axes, and rocks. Many thousands lost their lives on this field with William gaining the ascendancy only after almost a full day of fighting.

Harold was killed in battle. Although there is some debate about whether he was felled by an arrow through the eye or by an axe wielded by William's Knights sent through the fray to assassinate the English King. Following defeat on October 14 William proceeded to conquer the Saxon resistance and was crowned King on 25 December 1066 in Westminster.

William had such respect for Harold that he declared that an Abbey be established on the high ground from which the English defended. The Benedictine Monks required all their building expertise due to the steep slopes of the site. William himself returned to identify the site where Harold was felled. This site became the location of the Church High Alter. The church itself was consecrated in February 1094. Today a plaque commemorates the site. I enjoyed walking the grounds and admiring the Gothic architecture.

The final site I visited was Walmer Castle. Built by Henry VIII in 1539 it was an artillery fortress to protect again invasion from France and Spain. In 1708 Walmer Castle became the residence of the Lard Warden of the Cinque Ports. Resident Wardens have included the Duke of Wellington, Winston Churchill (who refused to live at the Castle - as was customary - because it was within range of the German artillery located on the French coast), and Queen Elizabeth.

I was fascinated by the Wellington room that housed an actual coat, hat, and leather boots worn by the Duke. It was a little funny to be looking at his "wellies". The castle gardens are well worth a visit. There are formal kitchen gardens, and a glorious avenue that was planted with flowers boarded by a manicured hedge. Of interest was also the "Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother's Garden". Queen Victoria and Albert have also stayed at the castle.

Not a bad day. Photos are here.

Derwent Valley

Waking early and dispensing with breakfast I was on the road and headed for the Derwent Valley on the eastern edge of the Peak. I had my eye on a five hour walk that takes in the Froggatt Edge and Padley Gorge.

The walk starts from Longshaw Lodge passed a set millstones arranged. This part of the Peak is known for its grit stones from which the millstones are hewn. Close inspection reveals that these stones are comprised of what appears to be coarse sand. Probably some kind of sedimentary rock.

Passing though a few fields filled with sheep and lambs munching on the lush grass I passed beside woodland before existing at the edge of a stone wall to climb a style. The map I was following was detailed – based on an Ordinance Map - but the accompanying walk description was too brief. I almost mossed the turn. Once over the all I headed downhill towards a stream. Interestingly this path cuts its way through the field as a set of flag stones.

Arriving at the stream I forked up a short but steep hill to a ridge with large rock out crops; the start of the Froggatt Edge. The views are stunning; standing almost on a cliff edge overlooking the Derwent Valley with the River winding its way past small villages with stone houses and slate roofs.

The weather turned with angry clouds arriving followed shortly by a light but steady rain. I pulled out an umbrella – can you believe it – but luckily there was no wind. It’s a fairly popular walk so I met many people along the way. At a particularly large outcrop I turned sharply right to descend towards the woods below. As I came off the ridge I walked towards the base of the rocks. Climbers were everywhere – obviously a popular spot.

I was soon in a thick woods consisting of mainly birch with lots of scattered rocks covered with a thick moss. Finding a tree with a low outstretched branch I stopped for lunch. It was gloriously peaceful amongst the trees and wildflowers.

Continuing on I passed through Froggatt village and on to Nether Padley. Over a rail bridge (complete with tunnel disappearing into the mountains built in 1898) I passed a mill before turning sharply uphill to enter the Padley George.

I think this was probably the highlight of the walk. Its an ancient woods with old gnarled oaks all around. The path, once again, was flag stones. Strewn everywhere were grit stones covered in moss. Together with the bright green spring growth and dense canopy overhead I felt as if I were immersed in green. The rain beat a steady rhythm on my umbrella as I simply enjoyed the quiet. The walk was doing me good; ridding me of the tensions and worries of work. Along the way I passed some millstones that had been carved but then abandoned before completion.

Arriving back at my starting point about 3pm I decided to finish my weekend with a visit to some standing stones. No surprise there! So I punched in the GPS location for Arbor Low and off I went. Although only 30 minutes away to the south of the Peak the rain had well and truly set in. The low lying roads were awash with water so you had to be on the ball.

The stone circle is located on a private farm but National Heritage has an arrangement that allows visitors. So off I set in the pouring rain with an umbrella that by now was almost useless. Past a large milking shed and through a field with dairy cows I arrive at the stone circle. Its large and set on a raised earth platform that is surrounded by a ditch. The stones themselves have fallen over. Its thought to have been built by the Beaker People in around 2000BC. The rain and mist came rolling in which I found appropriate for a site such as this. After only about 10 minutes out in the weather I scurried back to the car to start my homeward journey.

Photos are here.

Jodrell Bank

Jodrell Bank, a pioneering radio telescope, has played a fundamental role in the discovery and understanding of objects such as quasars and gravitational lenses. It was established 1945 under the direction of Bernard Lovell following his key contribution to radar during the Second World War. Being a radio telescope, it was sited in a rural area of Cheshire yet within access to Manchester University. A small place called Jodrell Bank.

The telescope burst on the public stage in 1966 at the height of the Space Race between America and Russia. Russia, with an edge, launched the first lunar probe containing a science package. England were alerted to the launch of the carrier rocket, and being one of the most sensitive radio instruments on Earth, took advantage of its celestial geometry to lay in wait for any radio transmissions that might come when the probe landed. Sure enough it intercepted a signal which was promptly stored but its contents were a mystery. Listening to the message, a scientist recognised what he thought were fax tones. Grabbing a fax machine and connecting it to the recorded message resulted in a black and white image of the moon as seen by the probe. Not wasting any time it was splashed across the newspapers jumping the gun on the Russians!

More recently radio astronomers have collaborated with the Parkes Radio Telescope in Australia. And in the 1980’s a new distributed system, called MERLIN, was installed linking radio telescopes across England. The resolution of this new instrument rivals the orbiting Hubble Space Telescope. Looking to the future, Australia is vying with South Africa as the host of the next generation of very large baseline array radio telescope. The Australian site is in the Kimberley – definitely a very remote and very radio quiet location. I’d like to think we are the front runner!

So with that bit of background you can understand my interest. So early this morning I set off on the three hour journey north. Weather this weekend is not good. Grey skies and forecast of heavy showers in the afternoon. So I wanted to arrive before lunch just in case.

There is a small, modest, visitor’s centre. But no matter – the highlight is the Lovell telescope. And I wasn’t disappointed. Approaching Jodrell Bank I glimpsed the large white structure in a field. Rather like Parkes Telescope which is sited in the middle of a sheep paddock! Unfortunately there was nowhere to pull over so I made my way to the car park.

My first impression is that its such an engineering achievement. Its enormous structure is
steel – including the surface of the parabolic dish. The dish pivots on a set of large supports: designated the green and red towers (presumably a reference to navigation). These towers in turn rest on a circular track allowing the whole structure to rotate left or right for azimuth pointing. For elevation, there are an enormous set of semicircular tracks that drive the dish up or down. It is possible to point the dish directly up or straight to the horizon. What an engineering achievement.

I was drawn to the telescope as soon as I got out of the car. Passing a statue of Nicolaus Copernicus I embarked on a walk around its base. As I looked up at the huge dish I could hear the quiet hum of the telescope motors slowly driving the dish to keep it locked on some distant invisible point. Unfortunately the back of the telescope was facing me so the business end, the sensitive receiver, was hidden from view. But this was soon to change as I found spot to have lunch directly in front of the telescope. The pitch of the hum changed dramatically as the whole telescope began to slew. Simultaneously it rotated the base and pitched the dish over. Within a few minutes the face of the dish flipped over and pointed out towards me! I could watch this whole manoeuvre involving countless tonnes unfold in front of me as I enjoyed a hot coffee.

Lots of photos later, and with the weather closing in, I retreated to the visitor centre. Its basic with a few displays and such, but then this is a working telescope. In any case it seems that a new visitor centre is planned soon. Interestingly I noted that a lot of the video displays where Australian; Swinburne Uni in fact.

Having completed my tour of the telescope I headed West to the Peak National Park. Not far into the drive the heavens opened. Arriving in Buxton in pouring rain I decided not to stop and continued south east towards Tissington. Along the way the rained eased and visibility improved rewarding me with some stunning views looking out over the dales. The green fields are a patchwork made from stone walls. Old stone farm buildings were dotted everywhere. Spring lambs ran away from the car jumping in spasms that made me laugh and think of Merrilyn back in Australia. I’m sure she would have been in hysterics.

Tissington was a gorgeous little village. Small stone houses (most circa 18th century) had spring gardens in bloom. I decided to stop for an impromptu walk through the fields but just had to stop to inspect a church I encountered (thanks Lynne!). Inside was a Norman font from the 12th century. Its wonderful to find such treasures. Circling through the fields I made my way back to the car then on to Crewe for my hotel. I’m typing this from the bar but look forward to walking the Peak tomorrow. Lets hope that the forecast wet weather holds back.

Photos are here.

Walking the New Forest

During our travels I've always yearned to take a long walk. There's no better way to understand the landscape. So today I'm off to walk the New Forest. And in particular the inclosures; protected woods amongst the heath.

The New Forest was established as a hunting ground by William I in 1079. He also put in place a management system that included these inclosures and also also the right of Commoners to graze animals such as ponies and pigs.

Being the first day of a long weekend I expected a lot of traffic on the M3 heading south to the coast. As it turned out the journey took about 1.5 hrs. Not bad. I arrived at Telegraph Hill forestry car park at 10:30. The planned walk essentially circumnavigates a set of large inclosures to the north of the Forest.

As I started out it was a little cool - about 13 degrees - and overcast so I donned a jumper and started off across the heath. Almost immediately I say horse riders coming my way. There was a cross country event on today. Soon the traffic noise dropped away and I could start to enjoy the walk. I passed a number of ponies and foals - but all moved on as I approached.

The inclosure loomed on my left. To my right was the heath. This particular area was used as a bombing range during WWII including the 'Dam Buster'. I could make out the scars of few craters and even a brick and concrete observation hut.

A few miles down the track I turned to walk in to the inclosure. Soon I was enveloped by large oak brimming with almost fluorescent new leaves. On the floor of the woods were the first of the blue bells. Around me I could hear the birds. It was just what I was looking for.

I stopped for a sandwich in midst of the woods; sitting on a log in solitude. As I ate a pony approached and moved on.

I continued the walk until it broke out to heath land again and arrived back at the car about 13:30. Not wanting to stop there I took a short drive further south to Wilverly Inclosure for another walk.

Not long after starting this walk I came across an old Victorian cast iron marker plate stating that this particular inclosure is 500 acres and was created in 1775. Most of the waslk was via gravel bridleway with plenty of benches for the odd rest. There were a variety of trees including oak, holly, fir, and redwood. There was a sweet scent whenever I passed the fir and redwood. Just another element of the walk!

The guide book I was following recommended a cream tea at the halfway point of the walk. I couldn't resist stopping at the Old Station Tea House at Holmsley. Its a converted rail station serving a wonder array of teas. I ate a scone and tea (didn't want to undo all the good walking) and enjoyed it in the sunshine by a small pond and waterfall. If you're in the area, I can recommend this place.

Returning I had to ford the Avon River (only about three metres wide and may be 15 cm deep!). Then on to my final walk of the day. The Tall Trees Trail. Here was a chance to see some of the largest redwoods in England. Being about 5pm the sun was starting to get low which served to highlight the new growth on the trees. Along the way I came across the largest redwood in England - planted in 1853 and about 50 metres tall. But I think the most impressive was a pair of redwoods that straddled a grassy avenue. I could really appreciate their size. So I sat amongst the oaks and just enjoyed the noises.

I headed off back home about 7pm exhausted but glad I made the effort. I've posted some photos here. I recommend you take a look.

One year Anniversary: Merrilyn & James depart for Australia

It's 20:40 and I've just returned home after saying goodbye to Merrilyn & James at Heathrow T4 where they depart for a three week visit to Australia.

Needless to say it was difficult. And driving home past the Thames and on to Windsor via the Long Walk it was strange to see these familiar sights but not be close to my family. I guess its understandable that at times like this you reflect on how lucky you are. We've done so much in the past twelve months. There is no doubt that we've seized the opportunity.

This afternoon, after Merrilyn and I had packed her two suitcases (some spare room for the return journey) we ordered some Chinese from a favourite local, and then went to pick it up the long way. Out the back gate, on to the Long Walk, past the castle, up to the bollards, and then down Peascod Street past the flat we stayed at when we first arrived.

James always enjoys the castle and tonight he was so excited about his trip that he just couldn't stop talking. He wanted to point out everything to us. Including how high the Queen's walls were tonight! And the Union Jack that was flying meant that the Queen wasn't home. And that if she was, the flag would be the royal standard. And that the Royal Standard has lions on it. And ..... :)

Merrilyn and I talked about what we were doing this time last year. It is almost exactly our one year anniversary. Retracing some of the similar walks we did when we first arrived allowed us to relive some of the excitement; such as glimpsing the Round Tower from Peascod Street. Its fair to say a year ago we were filled with a mixture of excitement and anxiety. But we're so glad we came. We never imagined that we'd have the opportunity to see and experience so much. And I'm so proud of Merrilyn. She's moved far away from her family yet made many new friends and managed to create a home for James and I.

Which I guess bring these ramblings full circle. I know that Merrilyn is looking forward to seeing her family and friends back in Australia. Every day is planned out. And she's involved James these past few weeks. Buying gifts, looking at photos of his friends, and talking about what they're going to be doing.

James awoke so excited this morning. When we got to T4 we sat him on the bags on the trolley so he could ride all the way to the check in. Once there he showed the guy Dog's passport and told him that he's off to Singapore - for a swim. (Learning from our original flight over her Merrilyn and James are staying overnight in Singapore. We think this will make the journey more bearable for all.) We couldn't leave check in until James and watched the tags put on the bags, and then the conveyors start up.

We all proceeded to security where I said goodbye. James - a little sad that he didn't tell me he loved me when I left for Florida a few weeks ago - made sure I got lots of hugs and kisses. I know - it's tough. We continued to wave and blow kisses until they both disappeared from view.

Buon viaggio, la mia famiglia. Li mancherò.

Ranger's Gate

The night before last (sounds a bit like a bedtime story) we took a walk from Ranger's Gate to the Copper Horse. We used to do this a lot. And now with the warmer weather and more evening light it was pleasant to stroll through the Great Park. For me - it was an opportunity to spend some time with Merrilyn and James before they both fly to Australia for most of May. For all of us - we were reminded of how lucky we are living in a place like Windsor.

The oaks are now covered in vibrant green spring growth. And the setting sun lit up the woods with that wonderful orange light. Although we didn't see any deer we did see plenty of Pheasant. I noticed that the bracken was starting to sprout again - much to Merrilyn's despair (why does she hate it so?)

James pointed out the contrails (he calls them vapour trails) in the blue sky high overhead. "Look Dad, there's a cross", he said to an intersecting set of trails.

We walked up to the Copper Horse and whilst Merrilyn sat to enjoy the view of the Long Walk James and I scrambled over the rocks at the base of the monument. He has always loved climbing them and can got over most with a little assistance.

Walking home James pointed to the ducks that were sitting on the grass next to the pond. He was curious why they were not sleeping in the pond. "To avoid cold bottoms" was all I could manage.

I'm going to miss the family when they visit Australia for three weeks. But then again - I'll look forward to more walks when they return.