Wales Day 6 – Home

Today was essentially the long haul home. It was a difficult journey due to the storm front that moved in near Cardiff and brought torrential rain and very low visibility. Before long the roads were flooded which just meant a slow a deliberate drive home. To top it off, there were a spate of accidents- one on the M4 at J6 (the turnoff to Windsor). The whole inbound M4 was closed. Just add 30 minutes to the trip home…

Rather than just make a bee line for home we wanted to visit the Brecon Beacons one last time. Our Lonely Planet guide suggested LLanthony Priory which is on the extreme eastern border of the Beacons in the Black Mountains. The priory itself is in ruin but the trip is absolutely spectacular. Its accessed via a narrow country road that requires you squeeze the car between the hedge rows and other occasionally on-coming traffic.

We loved exploring the Priory. It is such an imposing structure even though it is in ruin. James escorted us through each room opening and closing his imaginary doors. Soon the rain started falling in earnest so we took shelter in the small lunch/bar room located what seems to be the priory cellar. It was very atmospheric. But also absolutely bustling. Merrilyn and I both had fresh vegetable soup and James enjoyed a steaming hot chocolate. We got talking to some locals who told us that the bench we were sitting on where the Archbishop of Canterbury and General Schwartzkopf have sat.

Getting back to the car was when the heavens opened up. As we made our way to Hereford the small country road we travelled on was more like a river. And the rivers were swelling before our eyes.

Last few photos are here.

Wales Day 5 - Snowdonia

No doggies this morning, but no rain either! After a quick breakfast we hopped into the car for a long drive up to the southern parts of Snowdonia National Park. Once again the GPS proved its usefulness as Martin and I tried to pronounce some of the names of towns along the way! Our route took us up the coast road through Cardigan and Aberystwyth. A lovely drive but very, very slow with most villages requiring 40 mph speed limit. We eventually arrived at Llanwyddyn - a picturesque little town set along the edges and dam wall of Lake Vyrnwy. A friend of ours, Paul, worked here at the Lake Vyrnwy Hotel many years back and we were interested to see where he spent a year working in the middle of nowhere! We ate lunch in the Tower Tavern at a window table overlooking the lake and straining tower which was quite ornate. The service was slow which was good as we had a chance to unwind from the long drive with ale and cider, and take in the view.

It had been raining for most of the morning so as we moved into early afternoon we decided to head south for home. The heavy rainfall had created many waterfalls which cascaded down the steep valleys and over the road in some places. James was happy to see the waterfalls, but was concerned that the sheep were getting terribly wet until we explained that the oil in their wool keeps them dry!

We drove through some grand mountain ranges and valleys of Snowdonia. I thought the sheer starkness of the winter landscape was just beautiful. The valleys were lush and the steep hills burnished russet with outcrops of slate.

It was another long, wet drive home to our cottage and we arrived at 6.30pm. When I asked James about his favourite part of the day (as I often do) he replied “the waterfalls” and “coming home”.

Photos are here.

Wales Day 4 – Relaxing in Pembrookeshire.

We woke up late to wild wind and rain lashing our cottage. It was lovely to be all cosy inside and Marty cooked a fantastic breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausages, mushrooms, streaky bacon and croissants. Yummy!

The morning was spent inside. We had planned to check out our immediate surroundings but the weather was too wet to go much further than the doorstep. I stayed in bed and read my book and the boys entertained themselves with James’ Christmas presents. That’s my kind of holiday!

At 1 o’clock we hopped into the car and went for a drive through a section of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Our GPS is so great – I love it! No longer do I have my head stuck in the map trying to navigate a suitable path through the patchwork-like countryside. I can’t imagine life without it now!

We drove north through the Preseli Hills which were blanketed in a thick fog and made viewing of the surrounds impossible. James fell asleep which is not surprising given the girth of his tummy! Our first stop was the Burial Chamber of Pentre Ifan. I’ve seen enough of these now not to be scared off by the name! This one is significant in Welsh history for its size and the fact that it was constructed in 3,500 BC. It was a really good monument, the 16 ton topstone supported by only 3 smaller stones. Nevertheless I still don’t like to walk underneath!

Having every confidence in the GPS we took our time and let it do the hard work of blazing a trail along narrow muddy lanes and farm tracks. The weather had set in but we didn’t mind. Until we came to the stone circles of Gors Fawr, that is. The rain wasn’t too heavy but it was horizontal! And the wind was almost blowing us over. We popped James into his wellies and braved the sodden fields beside the road. He had a marvellous time jumping in the muddy puddles and only fell on his front once but didn’t get too wet. Marty took off to another part of the field but James and I made a beeline for the car.

By this time we were looking forward to a warm drink and dry clothes so we went home. We were greeted by the two farm dogs who we hope to see again before we leave. James thinks they are wanting to lick him!

Photos are here.

Wales Day 3 – Brecon Beacons

Today we headed back East to the Brecon Beacons – just to the north west of Cardiff. It’s about a two hour drive from our house so we set off soon after breakfast.

Our first stop was another castle on the western edge of the beacons. Carreg Cennen is sited on a limestone crag that commands panoramic views above the River Cennen. It’s relatively inaccessible at the end of a winding and narrow country road. However, its dark ruinous silhouette is visible miles before arriving.

It is thought that a Welsh stronghold was sited on the crag in the 12th century. This was replaced in the 13th century by Edward I as he conquered Wales. It was dismantled in 1462 by Yorkists during the War of the Roses.
We arrived at the base of the crag and rugged up as usual. James donned his wellies. The climb to up the crag to the castle is made through lush green fields that are shared with woolly sheep. I think James’ favourite part of the walk was passing through the several gates on the way to the top.

The castle itself is relatively intact with some large limestone outer walls. The approach is made through past large circular foundations that form the main gates. Beyond them are the remnants of the barbican. We made our way to a low wall that lies on a cliff edge that gives stunning views of the Cennen River and the valley. This section of the wall seems to sit right on the edge was would have provided very good security.

We crossed over what would have been a few draw bridges and passed through the curtain wall in to the castle interior. The ruins rose at least four storeys. James took us on a tour of the rooms, pretending to open sliding doors at each one. His favourite, he declared, was a room at the back of the castle with a window that overlooked the valley beyond the cliff edge. He thought it was full of toys!

After exploring we may our way back outside for some lunch. We had the panoramic valley to one side and the castle to the other. Although cloudy up until now the sun did start to break through casting some dramatic shadows on the crumbling walls.

On the way back to the car we stopped for a coffee in a converted barn that overlooked the rolling hills. Very nice indeed.

From the castle we made our way through some very narrow roads to the Carn Goch just south of a small village called Bethlehem (pretty topical for this time of the year!) There is no doubt we would have had no way to find this without the SatNav. It is an iron age fort that apparently is one of the largest in Britain. I find these absolutely fascinating. Not least is imagining what life was like all that time ago.

The site consists of two forts and a large carn – all approached by a walk of about a mile. Reaching the site of the smaller fort on the top of a hill the wind was blowing and James was cold. So he and Merrilyn returned back to the car whilst I went off to explore.

The sun was making an appearance but this time washing the scene with that gorgeous orange winter light. I made my way to the larger fort on the top of the next hill. Along the way I wound through soft ground cover and couldn’t help but think that I was perhaps damaging this environment.

The fort itself consists of a large circular wall that consists of mounded rocks. The wall is quite high – about 4 metres. And very wide – about 6 metres. Its basically rocks piled on a wide base with sloping sides to form a triangle cross section. Inside would have been houses and other functional rooms. However, there is not much sign left in this fort. As I walked I could from time to time feel the rocks underfoot. Grass and soil has obviously accumulated over time. On one side of the wall I caught sight of the moon in the blue sky. It was a little eerie.

I rejoined the family about 3:30pm and we decided to continue our journey of the Brecon Beacons by heading east along the north edge of the park and then cutting south to complete a circuit of about one third of the park. James was asleep almost at once but we did make a short stop at Llandovery and I stole some time for a quick reconnoitre of the small castle there.

Photos are here. Short videos of Carreg Cennen and Carn Goch.

Wales Day 2 – Pembrokeshire

Today was grey and wet - although not overly cold. We have a few full day trips planned so today we wanted to explore the local area with a view to having an early afternoon.

First stop was the medieval stone circle of Carreg Sampson just out of Abercastle right on the coast. Thanks to the SatNav we had not trouble negotiating the narrow roads to arrive at the coastal town nestled in a cove that reminded us of Polperro in Cornwall. But there was no sign of the circle. So we continued our drive on the cliff tops passing through Trefin. As we turned a corner I sighted the circle on the edge of a cliff. We pulled over and took some photos but it was a little wet to trek over to them.

From there we made our way the short distance to St David’s. The cathedral is Wales’ holiest place and is sunk in a depression. Apparently this was to hide it from Norse raiders. In 1124 Pope Calixtus II declared that two pilgrimages to St David’s were equivalent to one to Rome, and three were equal to one to Jerusalem.

Once inside the ornately carved oak ceiling was very impressive. The interior was dimly lit with a spotlight accenting a carved cross that hung above. The inner row of stone pillars seemed to be leaning and Merrilyn told me that there had been an earthquake in the 13th century. I guess if it hasn’t fallen by now it should be safe!

Henry Tudor’s crypt is also here. He defeated Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485 to become Henry VII and found the family of Tudor.

He stopped in the quiet seaside village of Solva. Although we had plans to walk the cliff tops it was still raining so instead we found a little pub and enjoyed a hot meal (still looking for rarebit) and a pint of local ale. Very relaxing.

For the afternoon we decided to look at some of the many castles that are dotted through Wales. Most are closed this time of year but we still enjoyed walking around Carew Castle and Llawhaden Castle. The castle at Carew overlooks the river and has enormous stone windows that must have provided its occupants a spectacular view. At its entrance is the Carew Cross – an 11th century Celtic cross that is one of the oldest in Wales.

We were thankful for the SatNav on the return journey as it guided us through some narrow country roads straight to our front door. As I write this James is playing with his toy train set he got from Santa and Merrilyn is preparing a wonderful dinner. Tomorrow we plan to head for the Brecon Beacons.

Photos are here.

Wales Day 1 – The journey to Pembrookeshire

Today we start our six day break in Southern Wales. Wales is a place that we’ve always wanted to visit but just not had the time. In fact, I’ve not visited it on the previous trips to the UK.

Merrilyn has located an out of the way cottage in Pembrokeshire that’s nestled in a farm property yet close to the coast of the western most tip of Wales – St Brides Bay.

We set of about 10am heading west on the M4. It’s about a 4.5 hour trip but we decided to venture in to the Brecon Beacons to take advantage of their proximity to our route.

Passing Bath we skirted Bristol to cross the mouth of the mighty Severn River. Once across we diverted north to Abergavenny. (And try as we might we couldn’t conjure the song Ninny sings about this place.) It was lunch time so we ventured out of the car into the blustery wet for a quick stroll through the mall and in to a café. It had turned into a grey afternoon with rather icy wind.

From Abergavenny we ventured on the A465 which is also known as the “Heads of the Valleys” road. It’s known for dividing the industrial coal valleys from the Beacons. Although as we drove past the cloud deck had descended to cover the range.

We talked of visiting the Carreg Cennen but it was getting late and we still had a few hours ahead of us. So we punched in our destination on the SatNav and headed further west along the M4, through Carmarthen to Haverfordwest to pick up some provisions. Being Boxing Day most everything was shut although we did manage to find a convenience store. At least we have some red wine!

Turning north we headed to Wolf Castle where we may our last turn on to a country lane winding through thicket hedges. It was 5pm and dark so we had to be a little careful. However, the directions to the property were good and we had no trouble finding our way.

Arriving we were delighted to find that our home for the next six days was a beautifully converted stone barn. It features lovely thick walls, central hydronic heating (although it was a little chilly on arrival), and – to Merrilyn’s delight – a Rayburn oil heater/stove in the kitchen. This not only provides a good deal of warmth but also it used to supplement the hot water service. Its cooktop is so hot that it boils coffee in minutes. Its also three bedrooms with a large dining/living area and James’ room has a low sloping roof line and deep windows that he just adores. Through the lounge room window look directly onto a field that has horses. As Merrilyn set about making some dinner I darted outside and took a few photos before we settled in for the night.

A few photos here.

Christmas 2006

Today certainly was a new experience for us. Not least of which was that we celebrated the first half of the day as a small family. But also it was a time when we missed our family & friends back in Australia. Together with all the little traditions and details that accompany Christmas.

James had a full and exciting day. He's in bed sound asleep as I write this. And of course last night he was full of excitement. Yesterday afternoon, when it was still light, I showed him the roof on the adjacent roof and explained that that was where Santa and his sleigh was going to land. Going to bed I told me of a when I was a boy of his age that when I tried to stay awake to see Santa I must have eventually fallen asleep - for when I woke up there were the present!

Of course, he woke up a few hours later and declared that he'd had enough sleep and wanted to know if Santa had come. No son. Off to sleep...

This morning when he awoke he was excitied to see that Santa and demolished the biscuits and milk and that the reindeer had eaten their carrot. James told us that he hadn't seen Santa or heard the "boomp" (that's the noise we all make just before we land in a plane).

But Santa must have come as there were lots of presents in his sack. But before we could open them we had some breakfast and called the family back home. It was good to hear from you all.

James was thrilled to get his wooden train set. And a digger from Ninny and a construction set from Papa and Granny. He also received some books, a slinky, a jigsaw puzzle, (some Thomas underpants), some lego...

After a quick clean up James and I set up his train set in the study next to his workbench. We built a rather complicated arrangement with circles, a bridge, and the level crossing. He found it a little difficult hopping in a out of the circles to push his train. So we remodelled, making a simpler track with a big loop he could sit in. We didn't see him from the rest of the morning!

Merrilyn made an absolutely delicious lunch. Chicken, parma ham and sprouts, roast potatoes, yum. Followed of course by fruit pudding and custard. She's wonderful!

Then at 3pm we set off to the Fosters for the afternoon and met the Wimalajeewa's. Merrilyn took over some mulled wine and Italian christmas cake she had made. So it was drinking, eating, and more presents for the kids. We stayed for dinner and then played Who Wants to be a Millionaire DVD with all and sundry. James was exhausted by the end. Merrilyn and I are packing for our trip to Wales tomorrow. There will be a pause in the blog for a little while. I'm bringing the laptop and 3G connection but don't promise posts from Wales. But we'll see...

Here are our photos. And I've posted a video here.

Windsor wreaths

After a very hectic week I'm finally on leave until 2nd Jan. So this morning we all had a bit of a sleep in - 8am. Great!

The fog has finally lifted so this morning we all visited Windsor Castle. St George's Chapel is closed from 1pm for the Christmas services so we wanted to take a peek at the Christmas decorations first. And of course, the state rooms in the castle were decked out in Christmas finery too!

Along the way to the Castle we took some photos of some of the many wreaths that are out. Like ours, most have real holly, fir branches, and the like. I've posted a set of them here. They were taken in Park St and within the Castle precinct itself.

In tune with the Christmas spirit Merrilyn bought some ornaments for our tree in the shape of crowns from the Castle shop. When we got home they went straight on to our little tree.

Merry Christmas to all our family & friends

At this time of the year we think of our family & friends back in Australia. From our family to yours we'd like to wish you a Merry Christmas. If you're taking the opportunity for a break then may it be a safe and fun one.

If you feel up to a little Christmas cheer then take a peek at this. We found it funny!

http://www.thecompassgroup.biz/merryxmas.swf

As we approach Christmas in here the the UK the weather has turned winterly. Its been close to zero for the past few days with over nights dropped to about -3 degrees. Although not much chance for snow we look forward to the mulled wine!

We've enjoyed the experience of living here in the UK. Its been a busy but exciting year for us. If you like, we'd invite you to check out our blog from time to time. Its at http://mmjpittard.blogspot.com/.

For us, we're off to south Wales for some quiet time in a cottage in the hills.

Now that's more like winter

We awoke this morning to - well - the dark. That's not so surprising. Even given the time of 7:30am. The difference this morning was the thick fog. Opening the curtains I saw the small pools of yellowish light thrown by the street lamps towards Sheet Street. Looking out towards the the Long Walk I could barely make out the shapes of trees. Merrilyn joined me and pointed out the frost on the roof of the adjacent buildings.

It was certainly cold as I walked to the car. Actually, according to the car temperature reading, it was -0.5 degrees. The ice was certainly testament. As was the freezing steering wheel.

Driving to work it was more thick fog - which really didn't lift for the whole day. Consequently it was dark by about 3:45pm! Driving home - yep - more thick fog. And because we have the vast stretches of grass nearby I suspect that the fog is thicker near home.

Merrilyn took some photos of the fog from the Long Walk. They're in the link at the end of the blog.

It really wasn't a day for spending outdoors. So James and Merrilyn had a cooking day. Chocolate and peanut butter cups. Yumm!!

Photos here.

PS - Max tomorrow is 2 degrees!

Journey to the source of the Thames

Not wanting to waste another glorious winter day we crossed another “todo” off our list. This time – walking to the source of the River Thames.

Its in Gloucestershire; about 1.5hrs drive near the Cotswolds. There is a footpath, the Thames Path, that runs from the source to the mouth. We picked up the path a little over a mile from the source just out of Kemble. Although we had originally planned to intercept the path a little futher away in Ewen, we arrived in the village to find absolutely nowhere to park anywhere near the path. So we headed back to Kemble and parked on a layby on the A429.

Whilst a beautiful clear morning it was only about 6 degrees as we arrived about midday. So we rugged up and donned our trekking footwear. For us, this meant hiking boots, and for James this meant his wellies. Turns out that James was probably best suited to the walk.

The walk to the source is basically through fields with a few fence crossings. Each crossing is well maintained so its no trouble.

Although only a little over a mile from the source we noticed that the Thames was flowing reasonably strongly although it is very shallow at this point. We crossed a little wooden bridge and continued along a thicket line. The ground was a little soggy and we could see the Thames as a stream that joined a series of large shallow ponds in the field.

It was a wonderful walk and we hardly saw a soul. James tackled the walk well although it fair to say the pace was leisurely! But that was fine by me.

Along the way we passed stone walls that crossed the path of the river. We stopped at one of them for some lunch. James was perched on the wall and devoured some sandwiches as Merrilyn and I enjoyed a nice hot coffee.

Through another fence crossing and we spied the source at then end of a depression (aka soggy track) in the edge of a wood. By this time the ground was sodden with lost of pools of crystal clear water. Approaching the source we spied a monument under a tree. It read:

THE CONSERVATION OF THE RIVER THAMES
1857-1974
THIS STONE WAS PLACED HERE TO MARK THE
SOURCE OF THE RIVER THAMES

At the base of the tree is a basin lined with stones. It was full of water. Here it is! It was wonderful to be standing at the head of such a famous river. We looked for bubbles in the basin but didn’t see any.

After a chat with some fellow walkers we decided to head back for the car. It was probably about 3pm at this point and James – whilst doing very well – was clearly starting to get a little tired.

The sun started to dip into some clouds on the return. You can certainly notice the change in apparent temperature when it does!

James made good use of his wellies by stamping through the shallow water that lay about the path.

About 4pm we were back at our car and removing muddy boots and clothes. What a great experience!

Photos are here. And a short video here.

A quick trip to Goring Lock

This morning James and I paid a short visit to one of his favourite places - Goring Lock. He loves to see the chalk boats head upstream through the lock. Particularly seeing the lock doors open and the water flow out.

Well - today it was very quiet. No boats to be seen. But it was an absolutely gorgeous day. Sunny - although a little cold at about 7 degrees.

James has an amazing memory. When we were down by the lock he recalled an earlier visit (with Granny and Papa) when he threw chestnuts in to the lock.

I enjoyed spending the morning with James. I've had a hectic week and its times like this that help you to know what's really important. We took a short stroll down the Thames saying hello to a few swans and ducks.

There are a few photos here.

Morning & night at Windsor

When I walked in to the kitchen this morning I saw a beautiful sunrise from our kitchen window. Mind you it was 7:30am but then we are approaching the shortest day of the year. In any case, the purple/orange colours seen through the darkened branches of the trees looked beautiful. I couldn't resist taking a photo.

And then tonight when I came home the Windsor Castle Keep was awash with light. I think this is because the Queen has a number of State Visits - particularly as we approach Christmas. Still - its a rare sight. So I wandered out to the Long Walk and took this photo. Its taken from just out our back gate. Its incredible to think how close we are. And to family that have been here - with winter here most trees have lost their leaves so the views through to the Keep from the Long Walk are now much clearer.

We put up our small Christmas tree last night. Merrilyn decorated it with a few ornaments from Copenhagen whilst James made a star to put on top.

Santa at Savill Garden

Today James was very excited to be able to meet Santa at Savill Garden! He had been practising what he was going to ask for Christmas. His answer would be “chocolate and a train set”, in that order!

At 2pm Santa arrived in his sleigh pulled by reindeer. There was a large crowd and the children were just thrilled to see him. We had pre-purchased a ticket so we went into the garden to see the reindeer whilst we waited for our ‘appointment’ with Santa.

We also enjoyed a coffee, babycino and Christmas scones for afternoon tea. I had a look at the very posh decorations in the shop but after Copenhagen I thought we might need a bigger tree if I bought any more!

As we stood in the queue James spotted Santa in his grotto. He got that funny bashful look on his face then leapt out of the line and ran around in circles! We said “Merry Christmas, Santa” and I took their photo. James placed his order and added “please” at the end! Santa gave him a little gift – a grown-your-own seedling kit. James said “thank you” and we wished Santa a happy Christmas.

There are a few photos here.

Copenhagen – Day 4

Our last day in Copenhagen. A beautiful Sunday morning with clear blue skies and the odd patch of warm sun. I wanted to re-visit the gorgeous Royal Copenhagen Christmas store for a few last minute trinkets so I left the boys playing in a square along Stroget. I returned shortly to find James frolicking in steam that was rising from an underground vent. He was dancing around and having a great time and Martin was trying to capture a good shot. The steam got his pants a bit wet but they are fleece-lined (a very good thing!) so he was fine.

We walked the now familiar path along Stroget to the ice rink at the end. I was still undecided whether I’d skate or not but the lively atmosphere and bright sunshine lured me onto the ice. I hadn’t skated since well before James was born so I was pretty anxious. I figured that the Danes were good enough to avoid me should I fall!

I had such fun and only suffered a bruised knee – technically, not a ‘fall!’ As I skated around Martin and James shouted “Hi Mum!” from the side. Then they disappeared and I was later to discover them at a pile of ice just near the skate hire. James was creating a snowman and was most unhappy to be told it was time to leave as the snowman was as yet headless and featureless! Poor snowman! Poor James!

We left Kongens Nytorv and skirted around the square to take a back street route to the Rundetaarn, the Round Tower. This unique building was completed in 1642 and still has a functioning astronomical observatory at the top. Access to the observation deck at the top is via a cobbled spiral ramp, 7 and a half times around and up! At the entrance James was very eager to climb but was soon asking to be carried. No chance! He did very well though. On the way down we detoured into the toilet, set into the wall of the tower. 6 steep steps down and no room to swing a handbag let alone a wriggling toddler!

Oh, and the view from the top was terrific! We could see the bridge to Sweden and all the Palaces and parks we had visited in the last few days.

We had been granted a late check out from the hotel so we made it back with minutes to spare. We took a cab to Copenhagen airport and after check in had some lunch. James was happy to play in the family playground which was a good thing as our flight was delayed and there was very little warning about which gate to go to. But, we were soon in the air again and James was soon snoring again! Poor chop! Again he missed out on a meal and thought that the flight attendant had forgotten him.

Well, there are a few more stamps in the passports! Wonder where our adventures will lead us to next…!

Photos here and video here.

Copenhagen – Day 3

Today after breakfast we decided to split up and get some shopping done then meet up later in the morning. Martin headed off down the Stroget (on a mission!) and James and I took our time getting ready and explored some of the back streets surrounding our hotel. It was nice to just meander along and blend in.

We were to meet Martin at the Botanic Gardens at 11.30. Along the way James and I saw the guards going about some drills. We watched them for about 10 minutes. Along came Dad and we strolled through the gardens toward a playground for lunch. We passed the huge Palm House and a lake full of ducks. We were amused to see the sign to keep of the lawn (Mum!) which James promptly tried to remove from the ground.

After lunch we walked a short distance to the lovely Rosenborg Slot. This Dutch-Renaissance palace is now a museum and houses Denmark’s riches including the incredible crown jewels. They were so beautiful! Only 3 rooms were open due to renovation but it was enough of a glimpse of their rich history. By this time James was fairly grouchy. I whisked him off to the (relatively nice) loo and missed the changing of the guard in the process! Oh well!

On the way back to the hotel it was my turn to shop, so Martin strolled the exhausted James back along Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard and I set off (with a spring in my step!) It was lovely looking in all the shop windows, even the ones selling seafood and pastries and things that ordinary Danes come to buy on a Saturday afternoon. I bought two rings which I love and will always remind of our time in Denmark.

I arrived back to the room at nearly 4pm to find the lights off and drapes drawn. James slept for 2 hours and Martin listened to his i-pod. I had a looooong bath as there was no room in the bed! We eventually woke James and the weather was dry so we rugged up and set off for Tivoli over the road again! James and Martin went on a car ride and the boats again. I took him on a ride through a Hans Christian Andersen fantasy-land. Our carriage was an opened treasure chest and it weaved its way gently up and down past all the fairytales. It was a little surreal but totally magical with tinkly music. James was enthralled but I think it didn’t go fast enough for him!

On the way back through Radhauspladsen I went into 7 Eleven and bought 2 beers – Tuborg. The Danish breweries brew special beer for Christmas. Or it could be the same old beer with a festive label to suck us in! Either way, we sat up in bed and drank them. Unfortunately not enough to drown out the clock bells but great all the same! Ahhhh…!

Photos are here. Video clip here.

Copenhagen - Day 2

Today was our first full day in the city. We’d had a restless night partly thanks to the clock tower situated at the front of our hotel. It chimed every 15 minutes until midnight! It was still dark when we awoke but we enjoyed our breakfast downstairs in the “Brasserie on the Square”. The restaurant windows ran along the front of the square and we could see that although overcast there was no rain. Instead of the usual croissant, I convinced James to try a Danish pastry (when in Denmark..!). He picked off and ate all the icing, then the custard and finally the pastry. He was well pleased with a bowl of fruit salad and yoghurt also.

We sent some time in the square at the front of the hotel, Radhuspadsen. James was excited to see the huge Christmas tree which the previous night had been blowing about rather dangerously! However, all the decorations were still intact and he ran round and round.

The beauty of this location is that Copenhagen’s main pedestrianised shopping street, Stroget, begins here. We were captivated by the amount of shops and fabulous decorations hanging overhead and in every window lining the street. We soon came across Georg Jensen and Royal Copenhagen stores, each with a dedicated Christmas store! I was so excited! The window displays alone were just amazing to look at. James stood still for a good 5 minutes in front of Santa making last minute presents for good boys and girls!

We happily shopped and had great difficulty choosing just a few things to bring home. Georg Jensen and the department store Illums, in particular, were almost like art galleries, filled with amazing designs and works of art. Not the ideal place for an active 3 year old!

At the end of Stroget is Kongens Nytorv, King’s New Square. I was really thrilled to see a circular ice-rink in the middle! I couldn’t believe how good some of the little Danish children were on the ice! Was I going to be shown up by midgets..?! James thought some of them falling over was really funny! I was scared.

We walked around the rink to the other side of the square to Nyhavn. This is the picture postcard image you see of Copenhagen. Lovely, bright coloured buildings front onto a canal that was once full of incoming boats and sailors. The fishing boats are still there and in use but the sailors and their dubious habits have gone. There was a Christmas market along one side of the canal.

We ate lunch in a small park with a playground just beyond Nyhavn. Funny how your priorities change when you have children! A statue of Hans Christian Andersen stood at one end. James had a good run around and we took the opportunity to take a toilet stop at a rather nice hotel opposite. He howled the place down when he cracked his head on the toilet bowl. Don’t ask!

A little further on was Amalienborg Palace, home to the Danish Royal Family since 1794. It was here that we got our first view of the Danish guards. I explained to James that they were guarding the Queen of Denmark, just as our guards in Windsor guard the Queen of England! We also figured that they are allowed to stand with their arms crossed as it’s really, really cold!

We came across Marmorkirken, the marble church just up from Amalienborg. I’ve since read that its dome is one of the largest in Europe, but the circular building itself is actually not so big. Inside was ornately decorated with beautiful Danish sculpture and paintings. There was an atmosphere of sanctuary, peace and calm in there (James was outside with Martin!)

Further still (well we did expect to do a fair bit of walking!) we crossed through Kastellet (barracks), past a really gorgeous windmill, and followed the signs to The Little Mermaid. She is just lovely and although sitting on a rock on the side of the port of Copenhagen she is not lonely and isolated like I imagined she’d be. I loved that even with busloads of tourists clambering out to her rock to get the ‘best’ photo, her wistful gaze never wavered from searching the sea beyond for her lost Prince. Such a sad little story. I was sad to leave her.

Heading back into the city centre it was now dusk. We didn’t mind as that meant more glittering photo opportunities!

Although it was now raining a bit we really wanted to go to the Tivoli. First stop was a mulled wine stall and oh, it was fantastic! Really, really good. Poor James couldn’t have any to warm him up but we did give him the fat raisins from the bottom of our cups! His reaction? “Mmmmm!!!!”

The crowds were huge and navigating the stroller through them was difficult, but there were so many families we just had to take our time and go with the flow. There was so much to look at that walking so slowly was a blessing! It was truly magical and European and sooo Christmassy! We could smell roasting nuts and hot dogs (Denmark’s national fast-food!) and wine and waffles. We soon got hungry so stopped for a bite. James and Martin had hot dogs and that kept them quiet for a bit!

James was desperate to go on rides, having caught the bug at the fireworks in Windsor back in October. We let him ride on a white horse on the carousel and he was overjoyed! We all went on the famous Ferris wheel and the view from the top was breathtaking. Then James was still asking nicely so he and I went on the boats on the lake. He thought it great fun to hit the icebergs and other boats.

We had a great time but were very tired and reluctantly left Tivoli at about 9pm.

Photos are here. There is a video of our day here and of Tivoli at night here.

Copenhagen - Day 1

We have all been looking forward to our Christmas trip to Denmark. This Thursday we left Heathrow bound for Copenhagen. Our flight was due to depart 11:55am so we caught our taxi about 9:30am to give us plenty of time to sort ourselves out.

After checking in we made our way through passport control. James is getting quite used to the rigmarole and seems to take it in his stride. He's got a bit of a head cold so we gave him a little cough medication to help ease the flight.

It turned out that the flight was delayed about 2 hours due to weather. During the morning SW England experienced about 70 knot winds that caused havoc at Heathrow delaying many flights. We finally boarded at about 14:00. James gad the window seat and promptly insisted that the window blind be closed!!

Taking off we seemed to get caught in gusty cross wind as the aircraft jumped from side to side on the runway. A few wobbles later and we were off. James - well he was asleep within minutes. Bless (another UK term!)

Copenhagen is about two hour’s flight (and an hour ahead) so we arrived in darkness. First impression of the airport is to reinforce the notion of Danish design. It’s a wonderfully modern airport with lots of subdued lighting and timber.

From the airport we caught our taxi to the Le Meridien Palace Hotel right in the heart of Copenhagen. Being in Europe the driver sits on the left. James couldn’t see anyone in the usual driver’s seat and thought the car was driving itself!

The hotel is undergoing renovation at the moment. Although this is in wings so we weren’t inconvenienced. Our room was brand new and had a lovely big bed and a bathroom that was very well designed (at least I thought so). James was on a folding bed which did take up a little room when down.

We rugged up in our big coats, scarves, and gloves and headed straight outside to explore. It was drizzling and about 5 degrees. I think with the wind chill it was about 0. Immediately outside is the main square – Raadhuspladsen. In its center was a large fir Christmas tree with lots of lights. Around the square the buildings are lit with bright neon. And in the backdrop is Tivoli (more on that in a later post). Instead we set off to wander down the main shopping street - Strøget. And it doesn’t disappoint. Strung across the street are lights – in this case with illuminated hearts. As we approached some of the high end shops (such as Illum, Royal Copenhagen, and George Jenson) we saw more dazzling lights and illuminated facades. Just magical to watch.

At the end of the walk we came to another main square. This one had an ice rink that encircled it. Merrilyn’s eyes lit up. We were all a little cold by this stage so made our way back towards the hotel. We picked up a bite to eat and then back for a nice hot bath in that bathroom.

See our first set of photos here.

Home from Copenhagen

Just a short note to family & friends that we have arrived back home in Windsor from an absolutely magical time in Copenhagen. We are all buzzing from the experience. For me - it was especially wonderful to share Tivoli with James. When we came to the UK sharing a winter Christmas with the family was one of the things I most wanted to do. I can't imagine anything that can top Tivoli at this time of year. We all just loved it.

Weather was generally good. Mild - about 8 degress. The last two days were fine; today was sunny. Great weather for experiencing the city. We did plenty of shopping too. We've gots lots of photos and some video. We'll post it over the next few days. For us - its off to bed. I have an early start and an all-day workshop. But that's for tomorrow. Oh - and I couldn't resist to post one photo to the blog!

Santa (and his Reindeer) visit Windsor

We all love Christmas time here in the UK. It just seems to have so much more atmosphere than back in Australia. One aspect of this is that in the run up to Christmas there are many opportunities for the little ones to see Santa. Today, at 2pm, Santa came to Windsor in his sleigh. Pulled by Reindeer!

As we headed towards Castle Hill we saw the thongs of families. All crowded around the street curb. We passed the Guild Hall and saw others perched on the fence to get a good view. Instead, we made our way all the way to the top entrance of the Castle. This is where James’ boom gates and bollards are.

Smack on 2pm we heard a commotion and saw Santa approaching from within the Castle grounds. Up went the boom gates and through came Santa in the sleigh. Four Reindeer pulled from the front and two followed from behind. (I can’t imagine how effective the ones at the back are although I’ll bet back in Reindeer-ville this is a plum job).

As it happended Santa turned straight down the small lane that runs past the mews. How lucky were we? That’s exactly where we were standing and there was nobody there. Instead everyone was lined on High Street. So James got a great view of Santa (video here and here). We followed him down past the Mews and back up High Street to the Guildhall. By this time we have re-joined the crowd.

At dusk I returned back up to the Castle to take some dusk shots. It’s just so pretty with the Christmas lights. I’m happy with the results although perhaps a tripod would be useful for the darker shots. See what you think.

Photos are here.